fashion nova essay

Is Fashion Nova fast fashion? How ethical and sustainable are they? Let’s discuss.

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Is Fashion Nova Fast Fashion? 

Fashion Nova is an incredibly unique brand, and unfortunately, not in a positive way. Not only are they a fast fashion brand, but they are an ultra-fast fashion brand, similar to Shein and Boohoo.

Their approach is to introduce extreme newness at a very low price, every single week. But at what cost? Everything about the brand is fast and trendy. For example, they release about 600-900 styles every week. They also work with more than 1,000 manufacturers.

According to  Fashion United , from the initial concept, the manufacturers create samples in around a day, which are then photographed and ready for the in-house models in another 24 hours. 

Most of Fashion Nova’s products retail for less than fifty dollars, which is a typical fast fashion pricing point, but they manage to sell jeans and crop tops for even less. Not only that, their Instagram campaigns and marketing are extremely active. If you visit their Instagram page, the team works tirelessly, uploading new content at least every single hour!

Fashion Nova is not the place to find quality jeans that are typically priced $200 because their skin tight denim can go as low as $24.99. CEO Richard Sagian stated that the company can get clothing manufactured “in less than two weeks.”

If you ever wondered what’s worse than fast fashion , it’s ultra-fast fashion.

Fashion Nova Sustainability Efforts: Is Fashion Nova Sustainable? 

If you want a straight answer, no. As we mentioned before, there is nothing more unsustainable than ultra-speedy production and marketing. Once money becomes the centre of the business model, there is nothing left to explain.

However, as we want to keep our customers informed, we will give you an overview of why Fashion Nova is not sustainable. 

What Materials Does Fashion Nova Use?

What’s the worst thing you can buy for $25? While affordable pricing is typically viewed as a good thing, it might get you a wool coat with cancer as an add-on. And that’s only one of the hidden costs.

This long wool coat by Fashion Nova is labelled with a warning called California Proposition 65, indicating materials that can expose customers to cancer and reproductive harm thanks to the potential Di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate, lead and cadmium in the materials.

Those chemicals, the small  warning tag further states, “are known to the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and other reproductive harm.”

In addition, polyester and other synthetic materials are commonly found among their products. Good luck finding sustainable and natural materials . Even if they use cotton or linen, we cannot tell where they are sourced from and, subsequently, how good the quality is.

Are you looking for silk? Mission impossible. Customers will end up in a sea of polyester options, also known as fossil fuel derived fabrics.

Is Fashion Nova Carbon Neutral?

This question is definitely premature for Fashion Nova. They don’t measure or disclose CO 2 emissions from manufacturing, let alone take action to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from manufacturing the majority of their products.

We cannot find any evidence that the brand is moving in this direction. And we doubt that will happen anytime soon, as there is zero statement on the environmental impact of the brand.

Does Fashion Nova Have a Clothing Recycling Program?

Not at all. We found no evidence that Fashion Nova invests in developing closed-loop capabilities, including design, fabrics, and recycling/reclaiming processes.

The closest thing to recycling that we found is a collection of four jeans called “recycled denim.” And guess what? There is no mention of any recycled materials, certifications, or claims. This is either blatant greenwashing, complete lack of transparency, or both.

Is Fashion Nova Ethical?

Where are fashion nova’s clothes made.

Our team didn’t identify any publicly disclosed information about where its products are produced, such as a factory list, the actual conditions within their factories, such as wages, or information about the clothing makers.

According to an investigation by the United States Labor Department, which was reviewed by The New York Times , Fashion Nova clothing was being made in factories that owed hundreds of workers $3.8 million in back wages during investigations that took place between 2016 and 2019. It was claimed that those facilities, which fashion brands use to create their clothing, paid their sewers as little as $2.77 per hour. Those are illegally low wages.

According to Mr. Saghian, in 2018, about 80% of the brand’s clothing was produced domestically. Since then, Fashion Nova’s supply chain has changed, and the company reports that fewer than half of its clothing is now produced in Los Angeles, yet the number remains unknown. Fashion Nova also doesn’t work with factories directly, which blurs their supply chain traceability. 

We are also not surprised that the company has not signed the International Accord, including the extended and expanded Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh.

Is Fashion Nova Vegan and Cruelty-Free?

Fashion Nova offers some apparel labeled as “vegan.”

Generally speaking, wearing vegan apparel signifies a commitment to abstaining from wearing any animal products. Using fur, wool, cashmere, leather, silk, or any other textile derived from animals is not vegan.

Fashion Nova has a collection of vegan leather jackets, but it’s just a fancy way to say polyester or PU–in short, plastic jackets. Such marketing could be misleading to customers.

We cannot find any vegan certifications on this collection, like those given by PETA or the vegan society. Therefore, we cannot be sure of their claims since non-vegan glues such as beeswax glues or animal dyes may exist in the product. Learn more about vegan fashion in our guide.

In addition, Fashion Nova does not seem to promote a sustainable vegan lifestyle at all. For example, there are much more sustainable vegan options, such as leather made of cactus or mushrooms, which we doubt they will adopt anytime soon until they shift away from their ultra-fast fashion business model.

Unfortunately, Fashion Nova does not publicly disclose any animal-derived materials or whether or not they are sourced ethically. We did find some wool products on their website, but it is in a trace amount (for example 10% wool) and there is no information on where they obtain the wool from. Certifications, animal welfare policies, or statements are nowhere to be found.

Fashion Nova’s Sustainability Rating

Now that we’ve talked about their sustainability, here’s how we rated them with our sustainable brand criteria .

Transparency Rating: 0/14

They scored zero, and no one was surprised.

Our team could not find any information on the factory list, which means no one knows where all these clothing pieces are made. Indeed they mentioned that they used to manufacture their products in Los Angeles, but they shifted away from domestic production.

Now it is even harder to identify their supply chain transparency. And if we have no idea where these items are manufactured, it’s pretty unlikely that they implement any fair labor practices.

We also are disappointed to figure out that their product transparency is null. There is no mention regarding where they source their materials from or any efforts or plans identified to do better in the future.

Fair Labor Rating: 0/33

They score zero for their fair labor rating too!

Just like their transparency, they don’t have evidence of certifications for their factories, or that any of their clothing makers earn a living wage. There is also no reference to any Fair Labor Association or SA8000 standards, and they don’t report if they audit their factories, or how often.

There is no publicly available Code of Conduct for their supply chain, and no evidence that they invest in worker well-being or benefits. Fashion Nova needs to do better.

Sustainably Made Rating: 0/49

Again, Fashion Nova scores zero in environmental sustainability. Where to begin…

Fashion Nova does not have sustainability goals, they show no evidence of intersectional environmentalism, they don’t use sustainable materials in the majority of their clothing (or basically any of their clothing), they have no evidence of sustainable packaging, and they lack certifications for any of their materials.

They also don’t share their CO 2 footprint, water footprint, waste footprint, or their goals to improve any of the three. They don’t invest in circularity or degrowth, but that hardly comes as a surprise. They also lack evidence of a safe chemical plan or certifications to ensure that their factories aren’t dumping toxic chemicals into rivers.

In short, Fashion Nova doesn’t make climate change or the planet a priority, and only has room to improve when it comes to the environment.

DEI Rating: 0/4

Another disappointment here. There is no information on diversity within Fashion Nova’s management or executives. We can’t find a commitment to diversity and inclusion either, or a DEI policy on their career page.

Our Principles

One of the ways we identify leaders in sustainable fashion is with our 3 principles. It comes as no surprise that Fashion Nova isn’t a leader, except perhaps in over consumption.

• Is the brand fast fashion? Yes! As mentioned above they drop up to 1000 new styles per week. This earned them -25 points.
• Does the brand inspire us? Fashion Nova doesn’t even bother doing the bare minimum, let alone anything inspiring. This earned them -10 points.
• Do we trust the brand? Transparency inspires trust, and transparency is something Fashion Nova lacks. This earned them -10 points.

Fashion Nova’s Overall Score: -45

Fashion Nova achieves our worst possible rating. This is not a brand we recommend and we strongly encourage anyone to find alternatives that are better for your health, better for the planet, better for clothing makers, and better quality too.

Ethical and Sustainable Alternatives to Fashion Nova

Looking for better alternatives? We picked 5 fast fashion swaps based on product type, all of course from certified sustainable fashion brands .

1) Hoodie Alternative

Introducing Outerknown’s Sunfade Hoodie. With 100% organic cotton, this hoodie is crafted from the most luxurious French terry, which only becomes better with time. With such fun and tasteful colors, they dip-dyed the materials to achieve such hues.

2) Tank Top Alternative

Introducing Pangaia’s Tank Top in Andes Green. This item will be your best friend this summer if you like neon for festivals! Made from organic and recycled cotton, this tank top is preserved for an extended period of time using Pprmint™, the brand’s exclusive peppermint oil.

3) One Shoulder Tank Alternative

Meet Girlfriend Collective’s Citrine Bianca One Shoulder Tank. This one-shoulder compression workout tank offers low-impact support and all the stretchy, quick-drying, and sweat-wicking features you love. Due to its low-impact support, you won’t hesitate to pair this recycled item with your casual jeans or skirts and take it outside the gym.

4) Ribbed Bodycon Dress Alternative

Meet Kotn’s Nile Rib Dress. Let’s admit it: we cannot talk about Fashion Nova without talking about bodycon dresses. Luckily, we have your back with Kotn’s rib dress. Made from premium thick-rib Egyptian cotton, the dress has a rear seam vent for comfort and a raw-edge hem for a raw look. It is also ethically made in Egypt.

5) Basic Leggings Alternative

Meet Pact Apparel’s Grateful Dead X Pact Basic Leggings. These unique cotton leggings are made of organic cotton, saving about 45 gallons of water. The organic cotton is certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and is made in a Fair Trade Certified TM Factory.

Looking for More Ethical Clothing?

Check out our shop for a curated selection of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes. From dresses to jeans, swim suits, boots, shirts, underwear and more, you can find it all from brands that are better for the planet and clothing makers.

Which brands should we review next? Let us know in the comments!

Mariana previously worked in various sustainability and climate change research and consultancy projects in Indonesia and the UK. Currently working in the tourism industry, she wishes to gain more unique skills and meet different people from around the world.

Ultra-fast Fashion Is Eating the World

Even a pandemic can’t stop people from buying clothes they don’t need.

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This article was published online on February 6, 2021.

L ast February , on a sunny afternoon in West Hollywood, two girls with precise eye makeup paused on Melrose Avenue and peered in the windows of a building whose interior was painted a bright, happy pink. Two pink, winged unicorns flanked racks of clothes: ribbed crop tops, snakeskin-print pants, white sleeveless bodysuits. One of the girls tugged on the door, then frowned. It was locked, which was weird. She tugged again. Inside, a broad-chested security guard regarded them impassively from behind a pink security desk.

Erin Cullison, the U.S. public-relations rep for PrettyLittleThing, a fast-fashion brand founded in 2012, watched the girls give up and walk away. She sighed. Although the West Hollywood showroom closely resembles a store, it is not, in fact, a store. It is not open to the public; the clothes on the racks don’t have price tags. “People try to give us cash, but we’re not even set up to take money,” Cullison told me. Instead, the clientele is made up of the brand’s influencer partners—thousands of them—who can make an appointment to visit the showroom every couple of weeks and “get gifted.” They try on the latest styles and take advantage of various “photo moments”: lounging on the plush pink couch, posing on the pink staircase, peeking out of the London phone booth repainted—yes—pink. They can snack on a pink-frosted cupcake, and (provided they’re 21 or older) drink a glass of rosé at the store’s pink bar, before heading home with several items of free clothing.

PrettyLittleThing is part of the Boohoo Group, a company that has become a dominant force in retail fashion over the past decade ; along with several other aggressive and like-minded companies, it is quickly reshaping the industry. Boohoo stock is now publicly traded on the London Stock Exchange (LSE: BOO), but it started as a family business. As the legend goes, the family patriarch, Abdullah Kamani, immigrated to the U.K. from Kenya in the 1960s and began selling handbags from a street stand. Eventually, he opened a textile factory that supplied the retailers that, starting in the 1990s, shook the fashion world with their cheap clothes and high merchandise turnover: H&M, Topshop, and the Irish fast-fashion juggernaut Primark.

Abdullah’s business was successful enough that he bought himself a Rolls-Royce; his son Mahmud saw the potential for even greater profits. In 2006, Mahmud and his business partner, Carol Kane, began selling cheap clothes directly to consumers through Boohoo.com. Without the burden of retail stores, the company’s costs were relatively low, except when it came to marketing. Young girls who went on YouTube (and, later, Instagram) were inundated with microtargeted ads for Boohoo bodysuits and minidresses. Boohoo’s founders understood that social media could be leveraged to make new brands quickly seem ubiquitous to their target audience. “If you have that imagery out there you are perceived as a much larger business than you actually are,” Kane told the trade publication Drapers .

Social media wasn’t just a convenient place to advertise—it was also changing how we think about our clothes. Fashion brands have always played on our aspirations and insecurities, and on the seemingly innate desire to express ourselves through our clothing. Now those companies had access to their target shoppers not just when they stood below a billboard in SoHo or saw an ad on prime-time TV, but in more intimate spaces and at all hours of the day. Brands flooded our feeds with their wares, whether through their own channels or, more surreptitiously, by enlisting influencers to make an item seem irresistible, or at least unavoidable.

The more we began documenting our own lives for public consumption, meanwhile, the more we became aware of ourselves (and our clothing) being seen. Young people, and young women in particular, came to feel an unspoken obligation not to repeat an #outfitoftheday; according to a 2017 poll, 41 percent of women ages 18 to 25 felt pressure to wear a different outfit every time they went out.

Boohoo’s founders understood that the company had to hustle to keep customers’ attention—to “be fresh all the time,” as Kane has put it. “A traditional retailer might buy three or four styles, but we’ll buy 25,” Kane told The Guardian in 2014 . Not having to keep hundreds of stores stocked meant Boohoo could be flexible about inventory management. In 2018, H&M was sitting on $4.3 billion worth of unsold items . Boohoo, by contrast, could order as few as 300 or 500 units of a given style—just enough to see whether it would catch on. Only about a quarter of the initial styles were reordered, according to Kane.

Over time, Boohoo accumulated rich data about online consumer behavior, and further tailored the shopping experience to its shoppers’ tastes. “They know that first-time customers like to see this product category, or customers from this geographic area like this color palette,” Matt Katz, a managing partner at the consulting firm SSA & Company, told me.

In normal times, Boohoo’s agility and ingenuity offered crucial advantages over the competition. When the pandemic hit, those advantages became decisive.

In 2015, when Tricia Panlaqui was 12, she pretended she was 13 so she could start an Instagram account, where she posted videos of herself doing the kinds of things that 12-year-olds do: cartwheeling, blowing kisses at the camera, putting on makeup. By her 15th birthday, she had moved on to what she felt was a more grown-up medium—YouTube —and focused her content on fashion. When she posted haul videos, a YouTube genre that’s a combination of an unboxing and a bedroom fashion show, her viewership skyrocketed. Brands began reaching out, offering her sponsorship deals.

In Tricia’s earliest videos, her outfits had mostly come from familiar mall stores: a white sweater from Express, distressed denim cutoffs from American Eagle. But once she hit 10,000 followers, her channel began to feature clothes from a different set of brands, ones that were typically online-only and based in China. There was Shein, which sells $10 bathing suits, and Zaful, where the prices were even lower. These companies had cropped up alongside lesser-known brands whose names tend to be two words awkwardly jammed together: DressLily, NastyDress, TwinkleDeals, TrendsGal, FairySeason. You wouldn’t find their goods at the mall or see them advertised on TV, but if you were a young woman between the ages of 12 and 22 on social media, their targeted ads were inescapable.

When Tricia agreed to make a video featuring a company’s products, she would typically receive a few hundred dollars’ worth of free merchandise. The product quality could be iffy, but the clothes were cheap and abundant—which meant she could make more haul videos.

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There was nothing particularly groundbreaking about Tricia’s fashion sense, or her online persona. She liked iced vanilla lattes from Starbucks and leggings from Lululemon. But she had warm, wide eyes, and she spoke to the camera in a friendly, direct way. The more content she made about shopping, the more views—and ad revenue—she earned. The year Tricia turned 16, she made nearly $40,000 from ad revenue, sponsorships, and commissions; to celebrate her birthday, she showed off her purchases from a shopping spree that had cost her $3,000—all money she had made through her YouTube channel. Once Tricia surpassed 100,000 followers—a key metric for YouTube influencers—she began getting offers from better-known fast-fashion brands, including Boohoo, as well as other companies that were following its digital-first model, such as Princess Polly and Fashion Nova.

To Tricia, sometimes these companies all seemed to be copying one another. Someone would send her a loose tie-front tank top, and then a few days later four other brands would deliver their versions of the same style. She soon had more clothes than she knew what to do with. She gave them to friends and charities and thrift stores; she sold them on the social-shopping app Depop and ran giveaways for her followers. Her closet still overflowed with outfits, so she stuffed the excess into suitcases.

Read: All your clothes are made with exploited labor

Working with these brands gave her some pause. Cheap clothes come with severe environmental consequences, and this troubled Tricia. (Her sponsors were self-conscious about this too—she says they asked her to hide the plastic packaging their clothes came in so it wouldn’t be visible in the videos.) The industry’s labor practices are also suspect, and commenters chided her for working with companies that had terrible track records. She temporarily cut ties with Shein after it was accused of using child labor in its factories. “But as sad as it is, every brand is doing some type of thing,” she told me. “You’d have to cancel every single brand.”

When the coronavirus arrived, Tricia was worried—with the world falling apart, would anyone care about shopping? Clothing retailers were among the hardest hit by the pandemic. In April, U.S. clothing sales plummeted by 79 percent from March; McKinsey predicted that global fashion-industry revenues would contract by 30 percent in 2020 . Brands like Primark were saddled with what one industry observer called an “inventory crisis”—billions of dollars of merchandise intended for now-closed shops.

With less inventory and no brick-and-mortar stores, Boohoo and its competitors had no such drag on their operations . Quick to pivot, the brands sent Tricia sweatpants and hoodies and suggested themes for her videos: Corona style! Lounging at home! Even with the economy in free fall, demand for cheap, cute clothes persisted.

In times of crisis, consumers don’t stop shopping—they just limit their purchases to affordable pleasures. Fast fashion had expanded its market share during the 2008 global financial crisis; now this new cohort of companies—known as ultra-fast fashion—was poised to do the same. While the rest of the retail sector struggled and legacy companies such as J.Crew and Neiman Marcus filed for bankruptcy, many of Tricia’s sponsors and their rivals thrived. Asos’s sales rose rapidly from March to June. Boohoo had its best quarter ever. “We’ve seen an incredible sprint to digital,” Matt Katz told me. “What would’ve taken seven years has taken seven months—or seven weeks.”

Boohoo’s clothes may not feature prominently in Vogue photo shoots, and may, for now, appeal to customers who are mostly under the age of 30. But the rise of ultra-fast fashion marks a major shift in the retail world. Two decades ago, the first fast-fashion companies redrew the lines of a staid industry. Now their faster, cheaper successors are upending it. In the process, they are changing our relationship to shopping, to our clothes, and even to our planet.

Back when going to the mall was still a possibility, Tricia filmed another video. She held up a yellow plastic bag from a former fast-fashion powerhouse, Forever 21. “I normally don’t go there and, like, buy clothes there … but our store was 70 percent off so I was like, ‘Okay,’ ” she said, sounding skeptical.

For those of us who grew up haunting the food courts of suburban malls, Forever 21 was once the epitome of fast fashion. When the company filed for bankruptcy in 2019, some interpreted it as the end of an era. If Millennials killed homeownership, golf, and department stores, perhaps Generation Z consumers, who claimed to prize sustainability and transparency, would be the death of fast fashion. In study after study, young shoppers said they preferred eco-friendly products from socially conscious companies; surely they wouldn’t support an industry notorious for its alarming environmental toll and history of exploiting workers. But that isn’t exactly what happened.

Read: Forever 21 underestimated young women

When Forever 21 (then known as Fashion 21) opened its first store—in the Highland Park neighborhood of Los Angeles, in 1984—the majority of the clothes bought in the U.S. were still produced domestically, and most fashion brands released new styles seasonally. “Your mom took you shopping at the beginning of the school year. You got two pairs of jeans, and maybe if you were really lucky, you could squeeze a dress out of her,” recalls Aja Barber, a writer and fashion-sustainability consultant.

But macro-level changes were transforming the industry. Synthetic fibers made it possible to manufacture cheaper (and in many cases less durable) clothes; new trade policies led to a globalized supply chain. Companies shifted production offshore, where environmental regulations were less stringent, or nonexistent, and garment workers sometimes earned 20 times less than in the U.S. Clothing got massively cheaper.

Forever 21, which initially catered to L.A.’s Korean community, set itself apart by offering a steady flow of new merchandise that capitalized on emerging styles. As it grew, its co-founder Jin Sook Chang reviewed as many as 400 new designs a day . Shopping for fast fashion was exciting—there was always something new, and the merchandise was so cheap that you could easily justify an impulse buy.

While high-end fashion companies were still releasing fall and spring collections, Forever 21’s rival Zara offered fresh styles twice a week. The company, which prefers to distance itself from the “fast fashion” label, says it was just trying to respond to customers’ desires. But stocking inexpensive, ever-changing options also stimulated our desire to buy more. If you found a look you liked at Zara, you had to snap it up right away, or else suffer from fashion FOMO. One study found that, whereas the average shopper visited any given store about four times a year, Zara shoppers stopped in once every three weeks.

Traditional brands initially scoffed at fast fashion, but they also feared losing market share; they, too, began shifting manufacturing overseas and releasing items more frequently. The 2008 financial crisis further cemented fast fashion’s hold on the market. If you were going to a job interview while the economy collapsed around you, a $25 Forever 21 blazer was hard to beat. Even after the economy recovered, people kept buying inexpensive clothes, and in ever-larger quantities. Worldwide, clothing production doubled from 2000 to 2015, while prices dropped: We were spending the same amount on clothes, but getting nearly twice as many items for it. At its peak, in 2015, Forever 21 made $4.4 billion in global sales.

It’s hard to overstate how much and how quickly fast fashion altered our relationship with clothing, conditioning us to believe that our clothes should be cheap, abundant, and new. Trends used to take a year to pass from the runway to the mainstream; now the fashion cycle has become so compressed that it takes just a few weeks, or even less. Americans buy a piece of clothing every five days, on average, and we pay so little for our garments that we’ve come to think of them as disposable. According to a McKinsey study , for every five new garments produced each year, three garments are disposed of.

Read: The power of buying less by buying better

Like many retail brands, Forever 21 was hit hard by the shift to online shopping. While other companies invested in their e-commerce platforms, Forever 21 doubled down on brick-and-mortar retail, signing leases in malls that were steadily losing foot traffic. When shoppers did visit stores, they found a retailer that was out of touch with the times. In 2015, two-thirds of teenage girls in the U.S. identified as “special size”—plus, petite, tall—but mall shops were slow to respond to this reality. Not all Forever 21 stores had a plus-size section; when the fashion blogger known as Fat Girl Flow visited one that did, in 2016, she found it “tiny [and] dimly lit with yellow lights, no mirrors, and zero accessories on the shelves.”

By contrast, many of the ultra-fast-fashion brands that were arriving on the scene featured thick-thighed models in minidresses and lingerie. PrettyLittleThing has made a point of embracing body positivity—prominently featuring models with stretch marks, models with vitiligo, models with colostomy bags. And while the ultra-fast-fashion companies were partnering with girls like Tricia, as late as 2017 Forever 21 was still spending nearly half its marketing budget on radio ads.

The companies that once shocked the industry with their speed no longer seemed quite so fast. Two decades ago, Zara was revolutionary for offering hundreds of new items a week; nowadays, Asos adds as many as 7,000 new styles to its website over the same period. Fast-fashion companies used to brag about getting a new style up for sale in as little as two weeks. Boohoo can do it in a matter of days.

Boohoo’s profits doubled in 2017. They doubled again in 2018. Meanwhile, the third generation of the Kamani family was making inroads in the fashion business. Umar, Mahmud’s son, had founded PrettyLittleThing when he was 24. Now he was turning it into Boohoo’s splashier little sister. The clothes were bolder (more body-con dresses, more crop tops, more metallics) and the branding was emphatically pinker.

PrettyLittleThing’s branding reflects Umar’s flashy persona. On Instagram, where he has 1 million followers, he’s posted photos of himself posing with Drake, sunbathing in the Maldives, and Jet Skiing behind a yacht. He hosted J.Lo’s 50th birthday party at Gloria Estefan’s house, and claims to FaceTime with will.i.am nearly every day.

The first generation of fast-fashion brands still tends to take its cues from traditional gatekeepers. Ultra-fast-fashion companies more often look to celebrity culture. Sometimes, this takes the form of partnerships: PLT has produced lines with Kourtney Kardashian; Fashion Nova has linked up with Cardi B. Other times, though, ultra-fast-fashion companies simply copy the looks of these and other stars. In 2019, Kim Kardashian posted a picture of herself in her closet wearing a tight gold dress with a midriff cutout. “Fast fashion brands, can you please wait until I wear this in real life before you knock it off?” she pleaded in the caption. Within hours, one company, Missguided, posted an extremely similar outfit on its Instagram page, promising to have the dress for sale within a few days. (Kardashian sued the company for copying her looks and was granted $2.7 million in damages.)

PLT’s aesthetic may be as celebrity-obsessed as its founder, but the real force behind its social-media marketing are the thousands of Bachelor contestants, TikTokers, Instagram models, and YouTubers like Tricia who have been enlisted to post about the brand. Studies show that the more we use social media, the more time and money we spend shopping online. Following influencers correlates with even more shopping. In 2017, data from the social-media-analytics company Hitwise showed that PLT was the most popular emerging fast-fashion brand, with a 663 percent rise in traffic to its online store since 2014. From 2016 to 2019, the company’s annual sales went from about $23 million to nearly $510 million.

Still, in training consumers to look for the shiniest, newest style, companies like PrettyLittleThing might be establishing the conditions for their own obsolescence. Today’s young shoppers have little brand loyalty. Consider Nasty Gal, which was once heralded as the “fastest growing retailer” of 2012 by Inc. magazine. Within a few years it filed for bankruptcy—and was bought by the Boohoo Group, which cut prices and closed the brand’s remaining brick-and-mortar stores. “Pre-COVID, not only were consumers buying and wearing things for a shorter amount of time, but they were also constantly looking for newness, which had been accelerating the cycle by which individual brands come in and out of favor,” says Adheer Bahulkar, a partner and retail specialist at the global consulting firm Kearney. “The sheer amount of newness in the market makes it difficult for any given brand to keep up.”

About two miles away from PrettyLittleThing’s showroom, a line formed outside another West Hollywood storefront. The occasion was the annual sample sale at Dolls Kill, a mass-market brand dedicated to selling nonconformism. On the surface, Dolls Kill looks like the polar opposite of PrettyLittleThing; whereas PLT is all about converging on the trends of the moment, Dolls Kill shoppers identify as misfits and dress accordingly. But the companies are banking on similar strategies to keep young shoppers coming back: aggressive online engagement, an abundance of styles, and unrelenting newness.

Dolls Kill is where you go when you want to buy neon platform combat boots or a pair of shimmery, iridescent bell-bottoms. There’s a dash of mall-goth in its aesthetic, alongside some anime-inspired hyperfemininity and raver psychedelia. Despite—or perhaps because of—its outsider cachet, Dolls Kill has attracted attention from powerful venture-capital investors. Amy Sun, then a partner at Sequoia Capital, a major Dolls Kill investor, surveyed the hundreds of shoppers clamoring to get inside the sample sale: their Billie Eilish neon-streaked hair, their skeleton-print hoodies. From inside the store, club music pulsed hypnotically. “You can feel the brand magic,” Sun said. “Which is super hard to build.”

Dolls Kill’s founders, Shaudi Lynn and Bobby Farahi, met at a rave. She was a DJ; he had recently sold his media company and was “partying,” he later told Inc . Farahi was impressed with Lynn’s fashion sense, and business acumen. She would buy something cute on eBay for $5, then turn around and sell it for $100. “She looked for items that were hard to find, that were viral in nature—items that made people say, ‘Hey, where did you get that?’ ” Farahi said. Lynn and Farahi began dating, and launched an online boutique in 2012. Lynn chose the name Dolls Kill because she liked the way the two words sounded together—one soft, one hard.

At first, they imagined that Dolls Kill would be a niche brand, popular mostly with club kids. But then something started to shift—the Burning Man aesthetic was creeping into the workaday world; festival culture went mainstream. Word began to circulate: If you wanted your #ootd to be colorful and weird and stand out on social media, Dolls Kill was a good place to shop.

In the age of the fickle consumer, one strategy is to make customers feel like part of a community. Dolls Kill proved adept at this. “All the models on our sites are customers who submitted photos of themselves. They are just ecstatic, and they become evangelists,” Farahi has said. In 2018, the company opened its flagship Los Angeles store. It was designed to look like an industrial nightclub, with raw-concrete floors, exposed-brick walls, and an Italian sound system the company referred to in a press release as “insane.” The stores are less a revenue generator than a way to reinforce that feeling of community, Farahi told me: “Are they here to shop, or are they here to meet other people, hang out, be part of a movement?”

In 2014, Dolls Kill attracted $5 million in an initial round of funding led by Maveron, the venture-capital firm co-founded by former Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz; five years later, the company raised another $40 million in a second round. That round was headed by Sequoia, which thinks Dolls Kill has the potential to be a “generation defining” brand, Sun told me. Rebellion against the mass market had mass-market appeal, she believed. “The age of conformity is over,” she said. “Anytime I wear anything from them, people are like, where did you get that?”

Despite its aggressive attitude, Dolls Kill has its own network of influencers and brand ambassadors, just as its more conformist peers do. The first day of the sample sale was invitation-only; the room was full of Dolls Kill superfans, but also influencers like Jake Fleming, a lithe, blond fashion YouTuber in his early 20s. He told me that he liked Dolls Kill just fine—its clothes photographed well and he always wore them to Coachella—but attending this event was basically work for him. “We went to a brand party before this, and we have two more brand parties tomorrow,” he said, a hint of fatigue evident in his voice.

The Dolls Kill sample sale was one of the last times I was in a crowded room. A month later, when most of the country shut down, I spent many hours scrolling through online stores—not so much buying but browsing. PrettyLittleThing had hundreds of leggings listed on its website, and I looked at all of them: white faux leather, flame-print mesh, seamless gray ombré. Dolls Kill was featuring velour tracksuits in candy-colored tones. The browsing suited my mood of low-key dissatisfaction, the itchy, procrastination-prone state that one of my friends calls “snacky.” I had a closet full of clothes and nowhere to wear them, but I added items to my basket anyway—improbable outfits for imaginary parties in a world that no longer existed.

The ultra-fast-fashion brands have designed a shopping experience that makes the consumer feel as if the clothes magically appear out of nowhere, with easy purchasing and near-immediate delivery. The frictionless transactions contribute to the sense that the products themselves are ephemeral—easy come, easy go.

Of course, the clothes don’t come from nowhere. Ultra-fast fashion brings with it steep environmental costs . “You may get a $1 bikini,” Dana Thomas, the author of the 2019 book Fashionopolis: T he Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes , told me. “But it’s costing society a lot. We’re paying for all of this in different ways.”

Producing clothing at this scale and speed requires expending enormous amounts of natural resources. Cotton is a thirsty crop; according to Tatiana Schlossberg, the author of Inconspicuous Consumption: The Environmental Impact You Don’t Know You Have (2019), producing a pound of it can require 100 times more water than producing a pound of tomatoes. But synthetic textiles have their own problems, environmentally speaking. They’re a major source of the microplastics that clog our waterways and make their way into our seafood. McKinsey has estimated that the fashion industry is responsible for 4 percent of the world’s greenhouse-gas emissions ; the United Nations says it accounts for 20 percent of global wastewater.

Meanwhile, the volume of clothes Americans throw away has doubled over the past 20 years . We each generate about 75 pounds of textile waste a year, an increase of more than 750 percent since 1960 . Some thrift shops, glutted with flimsy, synthetic wares, have stopped accepting fast-fashion donations. Discarded clothes get shipped overseas. Last year, a mountain of cast-off clothing outside the Ghanaian capital city of Accra generated so much methane that it exploded; months later, it was still smoldering .

Fast-fashion companies tell their customers that it’s possible to buy their products and still have a clean conscience. H&M has ramped up its use of organic cotton and sustainably sourced materials; Boohoo sells 40 or so items partially made from recycled textiles. Aja Barber, the fashion-sustainability consultant, told me she sees most of these efforts as little more than greenwashing: “It’s like, ‘Oh look, these five items that we made are sustainable, but the rest of the 2,000 items on our website are not,’ ” she said.

From the June 2009 issue: Fashion in dark times

Then there is the human toll. The rise of fast fashion was made possible by the offshoring of manufacturing to countries where labor costs are kept low through the systematic exploitation of workers. When Rana Plaza, an eight-story factory in Bangladesh, collapsed in April 2013, killing more than 1,110 and wounding thousands more, the disaster brought international attention to the alarming labor conditions in overseas garment factories. Some ultra-fast-fashion companies have emphasized on- and near-shoring, relocating manufacturing domestically or to nearby countries, which allows them to speed up production and distribution. About half of Boohoo’s merchandise is produced in the U.K.; in 2018, 80 percent of Fashion Nova’s clothes were reportedly made in the United States.

But domestic manufacturing doesn’t necessarily mean ethical manufacturing. Several of Fashion Nova’s Los Angeles–based suppliers were investigated by the Department of Labor for paying wages as low as $2.77 an hour . (Fashion Nova now mandates that all contractors and subcontractors pay minimum wage.) Reporters in the U.K. have uncovered disturbing practices at Boohoo’s suppliers, including impossible quotas, unsafe working conditions, and garment workers paid well below the minimum wage. Fast-fashion companies typically outsource production to a long chain of contractors and subcontractors, making accountability a challenge. Eventually, Tricia started shooting Shein haul videos again, after the company posted a self-exonerating explication of its labor practices on its website. But fast-fashion influencers, like fast-fashion consumers, have little insight into supply chains that are kept intentionally opaque.

Last spring, as the coronavirus tore across Europe, Boohoo and other fast-fashion brands kept distribution centers open. Workers told labor advocates that social distancing was impossible, and that they were expected to bring their own hand sanitizer. By late June, Leicester, the U.K.’s textile-manufacturing hub, had an infection rate three times higher than that of any other city in the country. (Boohoo has since pledged to make its supply chains public and require third-party suppliers to adhere to ethical guidelines.)

Regulators have started to take notice of fast fashion’s less savory practices, though their efforts have failed to keep pace with the industry, or have just plain failed. In the U.K., a special parliamentary committee that spent a year studying the environmental and labor impact of fast fashion made a number of recommendations, including levying a one-penny garment tax that would be used to improve textile recycling; the government rejected them all. Last fall, the California state assembly failed to pass a bill that would have held fashion companies accountable for wage theft by third-party contractors.

Also last fall, an independent audit commissioned by Boohoo found that the company had been quick to capitalize on COVID‑19 as an opportunity to boost sales, but had paid little attention to low wages and unsafe working conditions in its suppliers’ factories both during the pandemic and prior to it. “Growth and profit were prioritized to the extent that the company lost sight of other issues,” the report found. But it also concluded that Boohoo hadn’t broken any laws. The day the report was released, the company’s stock rose 21 percent.

For the moment, at least, there seems to be insufficient political will to rein in the industry’s excesses. But that doesn’t necessarily mean ultra-fast fashion is here to stay. With so many cheap products saturating our feeds, perhaps buying yet another disposable bodysuit or bandeau won’t feel as stimulating as it used to.

The last time I spoke with Tricia, she had enrolled in a premed program. She told me that she’d been making a new kind of video. “I’m styling the clothes I already have in my closet—so I’m keeping up with fashion, but using the clothes I already have,” she said. Haul videos were still popular, but she thought I should be paying attention to another trend: “Secondhand clothing and thrifting is so hot right now.”

*Lead image credits: Illustration by Barbara Rego; images from PrettyLittleThing; Barbara Rego; FreePNGImg; CleanPNG; Clipart Library; Space Frontiers / Heiko Junge / Getty; Shutterstock

Shein is the future of fast fashion. Is that a good thing?

The Chinese retailer is quickly becoming one of Gen Z’s favorite fashion brands, for its low prices and savvy social media use.

by Terry Nguyen

If you’ve spent some time scrolling and shopping on TikTok, you’re probably familiar with the fashion retailer Shein. From personal experience, however, “familiar” doesn’t properly contextualize how pervasive the brand is, at least online. Perhaps a more accurate description is: I am haunted by Shein. As a consumer who falls squarely within the brand’s target demographic — a woman in her 20s, who buys most of her clothes online — I encounter Shein-related content almost daily, algorithmically fed to me through Instagram advertisements, YouTube hauls, and viral TikTok recommendations. 

Shein’s ubiquity, most notably on TikTok, has catapulted the retailer to cult status among young women across the globe. And while Shein is based out of China, it ships to 220 countries, with the US serving as its largest consumer market. In June, Shein overtook Amazon for the first time on the iOS App Store to become the leading US shopping app, a title it holds in over 50 countries. This comes after a pandemic year of record-breaking sales: Shein raked in close to $10 billion in 2020 , which was reportedly its eighth consecutive year of revenue growth over 100 percent. The retailer is also one of the most talked-about brands on TikTok and YouTube, and the most visited fashion and apparel site in the world, according to the web analytics platform Similarweb. Shein had enough in its coffers to place a bid to buy Topshop in January, which it ultimately lost to Asos.

Shein has collaborated with well-known musicians (Katy Perry, Nick Jonas, Lil Nas X, Tinashe) for concerts and events and, like its trendy competitors, has sponsored influencers (Addison Rae) and created capsule collections with D-list reality TV stars ( The Bachelor ’s Hannah Godwin, The Only Way Is Essex ’s Amber Turner). But Shein isn’t a brand made for and peddled by the rich and famous. In fact, it has cemented its reputation among regular people, particularly Gen Z shoppers, who promote the brand through unsponsored clothing hauls and outfit posts on social media. Friends and coworkers have recommended Shein swimwear and dresses to me in casual conversation, over text and even on Slack. On TikTok, a recent crowd favorite is Shein’s cross-wrap crop top — a $13 garment that resembles a halter top, but with a strategically placed cutout that reveals extra cleavage. 

There are tens of thousands of styles on the retailer’s site, and each day, about 1,000 more are added. For context, this production pace is even speedier than the “ultra-fast” sites that dominate fast fashion’s Instagram era; Missguided and Fashion Nova, for example, reportedly release about 1,000 new styles a week. Shein’s business model, like that of its fast forebears, abides by the tenet that more is better, that excess can be made accessible through mysteriously low prices, with little care for environmental costs or transparency about its labor force.

A skilled Shein shopper can theoretically buy an entire outfit, accessories and shoes included, for $30 or less. In fact, there are entire sections on the site that help customers clinch the cheapest deals: A shopper can browse for tops under $5.99 , dresses under $9.99 , and clearance items under $5 . The wardrobe possibilities, it seems, are endless. One Twitter user recently observed that $280 spent on Shein can create a year’s worth of outfits.

Yet Shein’s emergence as a fast fashion juggernaut can’t solely be attributed to the price of its clothing or its ubiquitous internet presence. The retailer is also nowhere to be found in the physical world — at least not in brick-and-mortar stores, although it has previously hosted in-person pop-up events. Shein appeared to have sprung out of thin air into the mainstream, unlike fast fashion’s old guards, whose spacious, brightly lit stores were proof of their dominance. Yet, Shein is so far ahead of competitors like H&M, Zara, and Asos, according to an analysis by Apptopia , that it’s difficult to compare them.

So what makes Shein so special? The answer might seem simple (two words: supply chains), if not for its influence over ever-changing trends and its impact on fashion consumption. There’s no doubt that it’s Shein’s world, and we’re just shopping in it.

A brief, incomplete history of Shein

Shein was first launched in 2008 under the domain SheInside, as a site that sold wedding dresses and women’s fashion geared toward US and English-language shoppers. The retailer was started in Nanjing, a province in China, by entrepreneur Chris Xu, who specialized in search engine optimization marketing. Xu has yet to publicly express any interest in women’s fashion or clothing design (granted, it doesn’t seem like he has done many interviews in English); his expertise lies in SEO and brand marketing, key factors that have contributed to Shein’s online popularity. 

During Shein’s early years, there was very little that distinguished the brand from other Chinese e-commerce retailers, except that it sold wedding gowns. According to reporting from PandaYoo , an English-language site published by Chinese bloggers, Shein sourced its products from China’s wholesale clothing market in Guangzhou, a region where many Chinese garment factories and markets are centralized. Shein wasn’t involved in any aspect of garment design or manufacturing. It operated much like a dropshipping business that sells products from third-party wholesalers directly to overseas shoppers. 

It wasn’t until 2014 that Shein began to acquire its own supply chain system, transforming itself into a fully integrated retailer. That year, it purchased Romwe, another Chinese e-commerce retailer. By 2015, the company had shortened its domain name to Shein, a move that reportedly made the brand more memorable and searchable for shoppers. Yet, prior to these major changes in 2014, the company had a decent online presence and enough customers to expand its operations. It was an early adopter of social media marketing, partnering with fashion bloggers for giveaways and promoting products on Facebook , Instagram, and Pinterest as far back as 2012.

Throughout the early 2010s, Shein launched overseas sites in Spain, France, Russia, Italy, and Germany, and began selling cosmetics, shoes, bags, and jewelry, in addition to womenswear. According to a translated article from the Chinese tech site LatePost , by 2016, Xu had assembled a team of 800 designers and prototypers, dedicated to rapidly producing Shein-branded clothes. Shein also began honing its supply chain, cutting out suppliers that produced “mediocre-quality products or images,” according to a 2016 press release . 

By 2017, the present-day iteration of Shein had begun to take shape. The brand advertised on daytime television shows in the US, and fashion influencers showcased Shein products and hauls alongside other retailers , like Fashion Nova and Zaful. It was, however, the retailer’s early use of TikTok and ability to market viral products that skyrocketed Shein’s popularity.

Is Shein simply “fast fashion,” or is it the future? 

While venture capitalists and tech entrepreneurs tout Shein as the future of fashion, the company’s rise didn’t occur in a vacuum. Its success is predicated on a confluence of factors, from geopolitical trade policies to a decades-old, disaggregated global fashion ecosystem.  

The fast fashion business model was pioneered in the 1990s by the founder of Inditex, the parent company of Spanish retailer Zara. Zara notoriously abandoned the concept of fashion seasons for a year-long cycle of production, which introduced customers to novel items every few weeks. Its success prompted other Western designers and retailers — H&M and Forever 21, to name two — to follow its lead into the next decade. Retailers migrated most of their manufacturing process overseas to countries with lax labor laws, where wages can be low and working overtime (without additional pay) is common. This, of course, made fashion companies more profitable, as shoppers became hooked on a cycle of novelty. But soon, things were about to get even faster. 

• Fast fashion, explained

Toward the tail end of the 2010s, “ultra-fast” fashion brands — Asos, Boohoo, Fashion Nova, and now Shein — emerged as viable competitors to the dominant fashion empires of the previous decade. Last October, Reuters reported that investors think “Zara … is going to be crushed by fast fashion 2.0.” These ultra-fast fashion companies are able to reach millions of young shoppers directly through social media without the need for physical retail space, and relied on search traffic and customer data to foreshadow trends. 

But by virtue of Shein’s location and software technology, the retailer developed a speedy edge on its competitors. Matthew Brennan, a Beijing-based writer and analyst of Chinese technology, likened its pace to “real-time” retail. That means Shein is constantly gathering and analyzing customer data and uses that knowledge to craft new designs — within as little as three days. 

“Each new design is basically a bet because Shein can estimate how well a product is going to do, but it doesn’t know for sure until it sells,” Brennan explained. “Compared to its fast fashion competitors, Shein is able to take more bets, but at a lower risk. It’s able to place very small initial orders with these factories, about 100 or even smaller.” These batches were much smaller than Zara’s and that of ultra-fast fashion retailers like Boohoo, which reportedly ordered about 300 to 500 units per style . If a specific top goes viral overnight on TikTok, for example, Shein will be able to instantaneously ramp up production on the garment and place additional orders depending on demand.

Shein has spent years cultivating relationships with Chinese garment factories and manufacturers, whereas most Western brands generally outsource this work. Inditex is similarly situated close to a garment production center in the northeast region of Spain, but according to Brennan, business in China moves much faster. 

“Shein doesn’t work with very large factories but [with] small to mid-sized workshops that pick up orders daily,” Brennan said. “It’s very much like an Uber system, where new orders are coming into factory owners’ phones and they receive the order. It’s very scrappy, but efficient.” 

“It’s very much like an Uber system, where new orders are coming into factory owners’ phones and they receive the order”

Most retailers place a main order at the start of the season, according to Craig Ryder, director of the UK-based Supply Chain Consulting Group: “It depends on where the order is made and where it’s being shipped to, but generally, between a retailer placing an order and getting it to market, there is very limited time to order more.”

And despite Shein’s popularity, the company remains largely unknown among Chinese consumers. The Chinese apparel market is extremely competitive, and Shein’s priority from the beginning has been to export goods abroad. The retailer has also benefited from deteriorating trade relations between China and the US. China began waiving export taxes for direct-to-consumer companies in 2018 after the US imposed more tariffs, Bloomberg reported . Since Shein ships its orders directly to customers from Chinese warehouses, packages worth less than $800, or small-value shipments, generally remain duty-free. In other words, Shein has managed to circumvent paying both export and import taxes for about three years, something brick-and-mortar retailers aren’t able to avoid. 

“If you’re Zara, there’s no way you’re going to get around US import duties because you’re not shipping to individuals. You’re selling to stores and importing in bulk,” Michael Horowitz, a consultant at the firm Retail ROI, told Bloomberg. “[Zara has] too much of a physical presence. It can’t get away with it.”

Still, receiving a shipment from Shein can take a week or longer, which is a prolonged timeline for most US-based retailers and, of course, Amazon. (The company does offer free shipping on all orders.) Shein has, in a sense, served as an accelerant in the fashion world. It has forced competitors to reassess the emphasis on speed to increase profit margins, at the cost of everything else.

Is Shein’s speediness ethical?

Over the past year, Shein has received backlash from customers for selling, among several offensive items, a necklace with a Buddhist swastika pendant, a phone case with an image of a handcuffed Black person outlined in chalk, and a Muslim prayer mat as a decorative rug. The company has apologized for these incidents, which Shein has spun as a lack of cultural sensitivity and understanding of its global audiences. 

But these hiccups — which are offensive at worst, and weird at best — are partly a direct result of Shein’s fast production cycle. Following the completely legal copycat model of most fast fashion retailers, Shein employs workers to recreate trending designs for its own products. The artwork on Shein’s offensive phone case was replicated without permission from a 2014 drawing by French graphic artist Jean Jullien, in the wake of the Ferguson uprisings. Several designers and artists have accused the company of making blatant rip-offs of their work, but there’s little that can be done, besides drawing the internet’s attention to it.

There’s a running, unproven accusation on TikTok that Shein depends on child labor. These comments usually appear on videos of Shein hauls or styling videos, in which users try to shame well-off creators for buying from a purportedly unethical company. To be clear, there is no evidence that Shein employs children or produces an unsafe labor environment, but the company has not publicly disclosed workers’ wages or hours. In August, Reuters reported that Shein has yet to disclose information about its working conditions and supply chain to the British government, which the retailer is required to do under UK law. Shein had also previously falsely stated on its website that its factories were certified by international labor standard bodies, according to Reuters.

In China, however, LatePost reported that Shein has developed “a reputation for timely payment [to factories],” which is a rarity in the country. The retailer also appears to have a good rapport with the factory owners it employs, who were willing to relocate their operations alongside Shein in 2015.

Yet much remains unknown about Shein’s business practices, and timely payment alone should not be cause for praise or relief from consumers. What are the ethics of producing and selling thousands of garments a day at a breakneck pace, even if workers are reportedly paid on time? Shein’s business model drives — and depends on — overconsumption. Some of the most popular Shein-related TikToks feature young women buying hundreds of dollars’ worth of clothes to try on for every season or fashion TikTok trend. Sure, not every consumer can afford ethically made goods or have easy access to a thrift store, but it’s not low-income shoppers who are keeping Shein and the fast fashion industry alive. 

I’ve previously written about how the fashion industry is one of the world’s most resource-intensive sectors, even though there is no official research that fully summarizes fashion’s environmental impact. The production of polyester textiles alone emitted about 706 billion kilograms of greenhouse gases in 2015, and hundreds of gallons of water go into making a single cotton garment. Most of the clothes from Shein are made from synthetic fabrics, which are responsible for releasing plastic microfibers into oceans. 

The retailer has stayed mum on ethical fashion and sustainability, but it’s hard to imagine Shein embracing corporate accountability without widespread consumer pressure. Regardless, Shein seems poised to be the fashion giant of the decade, and investors are scrambling to look for other retailers that could copy its speedy supply chain. And as the fashion industry adjusts to Shein’s blinding pace, it’s safe to assume that shoppers are encouraged and expected to buy more and more. All it takes is another viral must-have product from a brand that might be the next big thing. For now, though, Shein doesn’t seem willing to give up the throne.

Update, August 10, 3:30 pm: This story was updated to include information about Shein failing to disclose its working standards to the UK government, and false claims the company made on its website about its factories’ certifications.

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Fashion Nova Company’s Labor Exploitation Case Study

Introduction, case study content, the un global compact principles, recommendations, reference list.

Over the past years, business segment all over the world has begun to pay much attention to the issue of ethics within a workplace. Unlike the times of industrialization, various units have now won a decent range of rights and security for the employees. Lately, these aspects are known under the notion of ethics. While many people think of it as a set of moral obligations, researchers claim it to be norms and behavioral patterns that exist in a certain social group, helping individual rationalize their decision-making (Baumane-Vitolina, Cals, and Sumilo, 2016). One of the most complicated industries in terms of ethical tolerance is now the fashion segment known for its frequent business ethics violation. The purpose of this paper is to introduce and analyze the case study depicting the act of ethical breach in the fashion industry. In the course of the analysis, a print media article will be discussed in terms of the UN Global Compact Principles and then given some recommendations on how to practice more efficiently in the future.

The fashion industry can be considered as one of the most demanding segments due to the fact it is to constantly adjust to the latest trends if not set them itself. For this purpose, the labor market of the industry cannot be flawless because of significant pressure put on the management. One of the most recent precedents proving the point happened in 2019 in Los Angeles, California, US. According to The New York Times article, the brand Fashion Nova , being practically the most popular online retailer in the state, had been severely violating the wages rate defined by the federal Labor Department (Kitroeff, 2019). The investigations claim employees work for three dollars per hour on average, placing them in conditions incompatible with ethical workplace patterns.

When it comes to garment production, many manufacturers tend to outsource their production to the workers in developing countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh due to cost efficiency. The average income rate in these states is considerably lower and allows employers to pay lower wages, respectively. However, in Fashion Nova ’s case, the vast majority of manufacturing was centered in the United States. Although most workers were immigrants from Southern America and Asia, they still were entitled to decent financial support.

Richard Saghian, the brand’s founder, claimed that the company’s headquarters was unaware of the labor conditions, as they did not directly hire employees, leaving it to the vendors. However, even if to take into consideration that the fast fashion segment is quite hard to follow, it does not undermine the scope of responsibility one obtains when launching a company. In this case, Fashion Nova has even more ethical responsibility, as various celebrities do advertisements for the brand, putting at stake their credibility and reputation.

The most crucial aspect of ethical responsibility, however, concerns labor relations within the overall context of the US market. The country itself is now experiencing a dissonance between the image of the diversity-embracing state with millions of people coming there to fulfill the notorious American dream, and the cruel reality of labor exploitation and discrimination. While small business is now more focused on establishing an ethical workplace pattern, large corporations are still driven by greed rather than a moral code to secure their workers. For this reason, the United Nations have developed a model of ethical workplace each employer is to follow to abide by the law.

Unlike in the past decades, the working-class representatives now have a wider range of opportunities to improve their working conditions. Once sweatshops were abandoned by the world leaders, society was feeling a strong need to establish a framework beneficial for both employees and businesses in the long-term perspective. Thus, the Ten Global Compact Principles were developed in 2000 by the UN (‘The power of principles,’ n.d.). These principles are divided into four major categories that deal with human rights, labor, environment, and anti-corruption.

Speaking of this compact in terms of the case study introduced, the company managed to breach half of the principles by limiting practically every labor right for its employees across the globe. However, the major violation concerns the policy of the elimination of discrimination in respect of employment and occupation. Every individual is, by all means, entitled to receive decent pay for the amount of work he or she executes. However, the major issue with this system is the fact that contractors hire employees who are quite unlikely to declare their resentment in public. The reason behind this fear is the fact that many of them live in the country illegally and do not have the documents required to find an official and safe workplace. Hence, the first issue that should be resolved concerns the necessity to provide immigrants with an opportunity to acquire legal recognition.

Furthermore, the main company’s argument regarding the situation deals with the fact that the management was allegedly unaware of the work conditions provided for people. While Mr. Saghian believed it could keep him away from the matter, such a statement only emphasized the unethical treatment towards the factories’ staff, as he was even unwilling to know how the working process was organized within the unit. What is more, the company’s management was aware of the finance rate they were allocated for the wages on the vendor factories. Hence, it was clear that people were significantly unrepaid when compared to the average hourly wages in the US. The fact that most of the workers were immigrants also contributed to the fact of discrimination trends are still popular with fellow US residents.

Among all the advice that can be provided for the Fashion Nova management, the two major recommendations could be outlined. First of all, in terms of the 21st century, a company’s administration unwilling to reach out to the staff is regarded as offensive and unethical. A cheap fast-fashion brand has to obtain an impressive amount of workforce to remain relevant. However, even when outsourced or assigned to the contractors, the labor should be controlled on the top management level. Hence, the brand should assign supervisors to each factory dealing with Fashion Nova garments to make sure the employees have decent working conditions to make clothes with their quality closely correlated with the price.

Another important recommendation would be to reconsider the company’s policy as a whole. Fashion Nova ’s surprisingly low prices make the brand extremely relevant in the market. On the other hand, however, the demand for the garment is not calculated in terms of the staff and salary scopes. Having a relatively good reputation, the brand has now an opportunity to make the prices higher to secure appropriate minimum wages for each worker.

In the course of this paper, the case study of Fashion Nova ‘s labor exploitation was analyzed in terms of the ethical business framework. It was then estimated that the major principle violated by the company concerned the discrimination of the workers in terms of employment and occupation. Thus, to enhance its practice in the future, the company should allocate more human resources to control the workflow. Moreover, they are to reconsider their brand policy by defining whether they can keep the garment prices at the current level.

• Baumane-Vitolina, I., Cals, I. and Sumilo, E. (2016) ‘Is ethics rational? Teleological, deontological and virtue ethics theories reconciled in the context of traditional economic decision making’. Procedia Economics and Finance , 39, pp.108-114.
• Kitroeff, N. (2019) Fashion Nova’s secret: underpaid workers in Los Angeles factories . Web.
• The power of principles . (n.d.) Web.
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IvyPanda. (2022, February 18). Fashion Nova Company’s Labor Exploitation. https://ivypanda.com/essays/fashion-nova-companys-labor-exploitation/

"Fashion Nova Company’s Labor Exploitation." IvyPanda , 18 Feb. 2022, ivypanda.com/essays/fashion-nova-companys-labor-exploitation/.

IvyPanda . (2022) 'Fashion Nova Company’s Labor Exploitation'. 18 February.

IvyPanda . 2022. "Fashion Nova Company’s Labor Exploitation." February 18, 2022. https://ivypanda.com/essays/fashion-nova-companys-labor-exploitation/.

1. IvyPanda . "Fashion Nova Company’s Labor Exploitation." February 18, 2022. https://ivypanda.com/essays/fashion-nova-companys-labor-exploitation/.

Bibliography

IvyPanda . "Fashion Nova Company’s Labor Exploitation." February 18, 2022. https://ivypanda.com/essays/fashion-nova-companys-labor-exploitation/.

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Marketing Strategies and Marketing Mix of Fashion Nova

Marketing Strategies and Marketing Mix of Fashion Nova 15 min read

Imagine a brand born online, catering to a digitally native generation, and exploding into a global phenomenon in just 10 years. That’s the story of Fashion Nova, a name synonymous with bold styles, cutthroat prices, and an undeniable cultural impact . In a world of fleeting trends and fast-fashion giants, how did this underdog rise to become a force to be reckoned with?

Founded in 2006 by Richard Saghian , Fashion Nova started as a single brick-and-mortar store in Los Angeles, catering to the clubwear scene. Recognizing the potential of the online world, Saghian shifted gears, launching an e-commerce platform that quickly gained traction.

Fast fashion’s affordability often came at the cost of inclusivity. Fashion Nova changed the game by offering trendy styles at budget-friendly prices , catering to a diverse range of body types and ethnicities. Suddenly, everyone could access the latest trends, regardless of their background.

In the age of instant gratification, Fashion Nova thrives on rapid production cycles. New arrivals drop weekly, keeping pace with the ever-evolving trend landscape and feeding the hunger for fresh looks. This quickness-to-market approach keeps customers engaged and coming back for more.

Forget traditional advertising. Fashion Nova has mastered the art of social media domination , boasting over 21 million followers on Instagram and leveraging influencer partnerships to reach its target audience directly. Think Kylie Jenner rocking their latest dress or Cardi B strutting in their newest collection – instant street cred guaranteed.

Social media isn’t just a marketing tool; it’s a community hub for Fashion Nova. User-generated content campaigns and interactive features foster a sense of belonging, turning customers into brand ambassadors and influencers themselves.

From body positivity campaigns to featuring diverse models, Fashion Nova celebrates individuality and empowers customers to express themselves freely. This resonates deeply with a generation that values authenticity and inclusivity.

Fashion Nova isn’t just selling clothes; they’re selling a carefully curated aesthetic . Think poolside lounging with vibrant bikinis, fierce street style with statement sneakers, or cozy nights in with comfy lounge sets. Their product range caters to every facet of a young adult’s life.

While fast fashion’s environmental impact is often criticized, Fashion Nova is taking steps towards sustainability. Recycled materials, limited-edition collections, and conscious production efforts show a commitment to change.

With a loyal customer base, a finger on the pulse of trends, and a commitment to evolution, Fashion Nova’s future seems bright. Can they continue to innovate, navigate ethical challenges, and stay relevant in a dynamic market? Only time will tell.

This is just the beginning of the Fashion Nova story. Dive deeper into this captivating brand, explore its impact on the fashion industry, and share your thoughts on its future. Let the conversation begin!

Table of Contents

Marketing Strategies of Fashion Nova

Fashion Nova stands as a powerhouse in the fashion retail landscape, celebrated for its fast-fashion prowess and keen ability to swiftly embrace the latest trends. The brand’s success is rooted in a strategic blend of social media dominance, influencer partnerships, rapid product turnover, and a commitment to affordability. As we unravel the layers of Fashion Nova’s marketing strategies, we uncover the key tactics that have catapulted it to the forefront of the industry, redefining how consumers navigate and engage with fashion in the digital age –

1. Social Media Dominance

Fashion Nova doesn’t just sell clothes, they own the conversation on social media. With over 25 million followers and a knack for viral campaigns, they’ve mastered the art of turning likes into looks. Here’s how:

Inclusivity is the Runway: Forget one-size-fits-all models. Fashion Nova showcases its styles on a diverse range of body types and ethnicities. It’s not just about selling clothes, it’s about creating a community where everyone feels seen and celebrated. This relatable approach builds trust and encourages customers to become brand ambassadors.

#NovaLove Spreads Like Wildfire: They don’t just post – they engage. Fashion Nova actively fosters a community by encouraging customers to share their purchases using branded hashtags. They then reward this user-generated content with likes, comments, and even features on their official account. This two-way conversation builds loyalty and excitement , turning customers into walking billboards for the brand.

Influencer Magic: Casting the Right Spell: Fashion Nova understands the power of influence. By partnering with micro-influencers who truly resonate with their target audience, they tap into authentic connections that drive sales. This targeted approach goes beyond celebrity endorsements, fostering genuine trust and empowering everyday people to become style icons.

From Selfies to Success: A Vision Realized: The story starts with founder Richard Saghian recognizing the power of customer-generated content way back in 2013. That early spark of seeing customers become influencers in their own right ignited a social media strategy that continues to propel Fashion Nova’s success. They didn’t just follow a trend, they became trendsetters, turning social media into their most powerful runway.

2. Influencer Marketing

Fashion Nova has cracked the code of influencer marketing , making it a cornerstone of their success. But their approach goes beyond just throwing money at celebrities. Here’s how they win the hearts (and wallets) of their target audience:

Mirroring, not modeling. Fashion Nova understands their target audience : diverse women who may not fit standard sizing. They partner with influencers who reflect this reality , building trust and relatability . Imagine seeing your favorite influencer rocking a stunning curve-hugging dress – suddenly, you can picture yourself in it too.

Beyond big names, a powerful network. While Cardi B and Kylie Jenner bring major buzz, Fashion Nova leverages a network of thousands of influencers , including micro-influencers. This multi-tiered approach ensures they reach various audience segments, fostering a wider impact and a stronger community .

From likes to loyal customers. Engagement is key. Fashion Nova reposts user-generated content and encourages the #NovaBabes hashtag , transforming customers into brand ambassadors. This two-way conversation builds excitement and organic reach , going beyond just likes and shares.

Building a tribe, not just sales. The result? A loyal social media community where customers feel seen, heard, and stylish. This powerful connection transcends marketing, driving repeat purchases and solidifying Fashion Nova’s position as a trendsetter and cultural phenomenon .

3. Rapid Product Turnaround

In the fast-paced world of fashion, trends come and go quicker than ever. So how does a brand stay ahead of the curve and capture fickle consumer attention? Fashion Nova has the answer: lightning-fast product turnaround . This strategic move isn’t just about efficiency; it’s a key marketing tactic that fuels their success.

Think “new is now, not next season.” Forget waiting months for trends to trickle down. Fashion Nova releases new arrivals weekly , keeping pace with the ever-evolving fashion landscape. Imagine a viral outfit rocking Instagram today? They might have a similar version available tomorrow, feeding the hunger for fresh looks and keeping customers coming back for more.

It’s not just speed, it’s strategic. This rapid production isn’t random. Fashion Nova analyzes trends, social media buzz, and influencer picks to identify what’s hot. Think of it as having their finger on the pulse of the fashion zeitgeist, translating it into wearable pieces in record time . This ensures their offerings are relevant, exciting, and highly desired .

Speed breeds excitement, but also challenges. While quick turnaround creates a sense of urgency and exclusivity , it raises ethical concerns about garment worker treatment and sustainability. Fashion Nova is actively addressing these issues through increased transparency, ethical sourcing initiatives, and limited-edition collections made with recycled materials.

From fast fashion to trendsetting force. Fashion Nova’s rapid product turnaround has propelled them beyond just being fast fashion. They’ve become trendsetters , influencing what people wear and sparking conversations about the industry’s pace and responsibility. This innovative approach ensures their continued relevance in a dynamic market, keeping them at the forefront of fashion’s ever-evolving landscape.

4. Affordable Pricing and Regular Discounts

In the world of fashion, trends often come with a hefty price tag. But Fashion Nova has disrupted the game, making on-trend styles accessible to everyone through their strategic pricing and regular discounts . This approach isn’t just about offering low prices; it’s a powerful marketing strategy that resonates with their target audience.

Think trendy without breaking the bank . Fashion Nova offers fashionable pieces at budget-friendly prices , often catering to a younger audience with limited spending power. Imagine rocking a statement dress for a night out without sacrificing your next week’s groceries – that’s the Fashion Nova promise.

It’s not just low prices, it’s strategic discounts. But affordability doesn’t stop there. Fashion Nova keeps customers engaged with frequent sales, discount codes, and special offers . Think flash sales, student discounts, and influencer-exclusive promotions – there’s always a way to score a deal. This creates a sense of urgency and excitement , encouraging impulse purchases and keeping customers coming back for more.

Affordability fuels inclusivity, but raises questions. While accessible pricing opens doors for many, concerns arise around garment worker wages and production ethics. Fashion Nova is taking steps towards greater transparency and ethical sourcing , aiming to balance affordability with responsibility.

Beyond sales, building loyalty. By making fashion accessible, Fashion Nova fosters a loyal customer base . This inclusive approach resonates with their target audience, building trust and brand affinity. It’s not just about buying clothes; it’s about feeling confident and stylish without compromising your budget. This emotional connection translates into repeat purchases and brand advocacy , solidifying Fashion Nova’s position in the market.

5. E-commerce Excellence

Fashion Nova has conquered the fashion world from the comfort of their screens. Their e-commerce excellence isn’t just about convenience; it’s a strategic marketing weapon driving their success.

Think seamless shopping, not store browsing. No waiting in lines or limited selection. Fashion Nova offers a user-friendly website and mobile app with intuitive navigation, high-quality product photos, and detailed descriptions. It is about finding the perfect outfit, completing your purchase with a few clicks, and having it delivered straight to your door – all within minutes.

It’s not just technology, it’s personalization. But e-commerce excellence goes beyond the platform. Fashion Nova leverages customer data and browsing history to recommend similar styles, offer targeted promotions, and create a personalized shopping experience . This makes customers feel understood and valued, encouraging them to explore further and spend more.

From clicks to community, building loyalty. Their e-commerce strategy extends beyond individual transactions. Fashion Nova fosters a vibrant online community through social media integration, user-generated content campaigns, and interactive features. This creates a sense of belonging and keeps customers engaged even between purchases.

The result? Fashion Nova has transcended being just an online store. They’ve become a digital hub where trend-savvy consumers discover new styles, connect with each other, and express their individuality. This powerful combination ensures their continued relevance and growth in the ever-evolving e-commerce landscape.

6. Limited Edition and Exclusive Collections

In the fast-fashion world, where trends cycle through faster than ever, Fashion Nova stands out by creating unique pieces with limited availability . This deliberate scarcity isn’t just about offering different clothes; it’s a strategic marketing tactic that fuels excitement, desirability, and ultimately, sales.

Fashion Nova collaborates with various high-profile figures and cultural icons to create coveted capsule collections. Remember the Cardi B x Fashion Nova collection that sold out in just nine days? Or the instant sell-out of the Kylie Jenner birthday collection , featuring vibrant neon pieces inspired by her iconic style? These collaborations tap into the power of celebrity influence and create a sense of urgency and exclusivity that drives customers to act fast.

Beyond celebrity drops, limited editions cater to diverse communities. Fashion Nova doesn’t limit itself to A-listers. They partner with up-and-coming influencers, social media personalities, and even micro-influencers representing various body types and styles. This ensures there’s something for everyone, from body-positive swimwear lines to streetwear collaborations with emerging designers . These targeted collections foster a sense of community and inclusivity, while still maintaining the limited-edition appeal.

Scarcity breeds excitement, but also raises questions. While limited editions generate buzz and sales, concerns about overproduction and sustainability remain. Fashion Nova is taking steps to address these issues through upcycled collections like their “Reworked” line, featuring vintage pieces given a new lease on life. They’re also exploring pre-order options to gauge demand and reduce unnecessary production. By balancing exclusivity with responsibility, they can ensure their limited edition collections remain exciting and relevant while addressing ethical concerns.

The impact extends beyond sales. Limited editions leave a lasting impact on Fashion Nova’s image. The anticipation, social media buzz, and quick sell-outs solidify their position as trendsetters and innovators . Customers eagerly await the next exclusive drop, creating a loyal following who actively engages with the brand. This fosters a sense of community and belonging that goes beyond individual purchases, strengthening Fashion Nova’s position in the competitive fast-fashion landscape.

Fashion Nova’s marketing strategies epitomize adaptability and innovation in the fast-paced realm of fashion. With a seamless blend of social media influence, trend responsiveness, and strategic collaborations, the brand not only cements its status as a trendsetter but also reshapes the retail landscape. Fashion Nova’s ongoing impact on fashion marketing highlights the transformative influence of strategic digital engagement, showcasing the brand’s ability to captivate a global community of fashion enthusiasts and stay ahead in a world where trends move at the speed of a double-tap.

Marketing Mix of Fashion Nova

The marketing mix, often referred to as the 4Ps, is a framework that helps businesses formulate their marketing strategies. The 4Ps stand for Product, Price, Place, and Promotion. Here’s an in-depth analysis of how Fashion Nova employs each element in its marketing mix:

Product Range: Fashion Nova offers an extensive range of products, including dresses, tops, bottoms, jumpsuits, activewear, swimwear, and accessories. The assortment caters to various styles, from casual streetwear to glamorous evening attire.

Trend Responsiveness: Fashion Nova is known for its agility in responding to current fashion trends. The product development cycle is remarkably fast, allowing the brand to introduce new styles quickly, aligning with the ever-changing preferences of its target audience.

Inclusivity: The product line embraces inclusivity, featuring a wide range of sizes and styles that cater to different body types. This inclusivity contributes to the brand’s popularity among diverse customer demographics.

Affordability: Fashion Nova’s pricing strategy is centered around affordability. The brand provides trendy fashion at accessible price points, making it appealing to a broad customer base, particularly budget-conscious young adults.

Discounts and Promotions: Regular discounts, promotions, and limited-time offers contribute to the brand’s pricing strategy. This creates a sense of urgency, encourages impulse buying, and fosters a perception of value among consumers.

Reward Programs: Fashion Nova has implemented reward programs, offering loyalty points and exclusive discounts to incentivize repeat purchases and foster customer loyalty.

E-commerce Dominance: Fashion Nova’s primary distribution channel is its e-commerce platform. The website is designed for a user-friendly experience, with easy navigation, high-quality visuals, and secure checkout options.

Global Reach: The online model allows Fashion Nova to reach a global audience. The brand ships internationally, extending its market reach and catering to fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Physical Stores: While the majority of sales happen online, Fashion Nova has expanded its presence with physical stores. These brick-and-mortar locations provide an additional touchpoint for customers who prefer in-store shopping experiences.

4. Promotion

Influencer Marketing:

• Diverse Influencer Collaborations: Fashion Nova collaborates with a diverse array of influencers, including social media personalities, celebrities, and fashion bloggers. This diversity ensures a broad reach and resonance with various segments of the target audience.
• Continuous Partnerships: The brand maintains ongoing partnerships with influencers, fostering long-term relationships that contribute to brand loyalty and sustained visibility.

Social Media Engagement:

• Instagram Dominance: Fashion Nova has strategically positioned itself on Instagram, leveraging the platform’s visual nature to showcase its products. The brand’s Instagram account serves as a dynamic lookbook, featuring curated content that highlights the latest styles and trends.
• Interactive Content: Beyond static posts, Fashion Nova utilizes Instagram Stories, IGTV, and interactive features to engage followers. This includes polls, Q&A sessions, and behind-the-scenes glimpses, creating a sense of interactivity and community.

User-Generated Content:

• Hashtag Campaigns: Fashion Nova encourages users to create content featuring its products using specific hashtags. This not only provides a stream of user-generated content but also amplifies the brand’s reach through social sharing.
• Customer Features: The brand frequently reposts content created by its customers, showcasing real people wearing Fashion Nova products. This not only serves as social proof but also reinforces a sense of inclusivity and community.

Email Marketing:

• Targeted Campaigns: Fashion Nova employs targeted email campaigns to communicate directly with its customer base. This includes personalized product recommendations, exclusive offers, and early access to sales, creating a sense of exclusivity and urgency.
• New Collection Announcements: Email marketing is used to announce and showcase new collections, generating excitement and anticipation among subscribers.

Collaborations and Limited Edition Releases:

• Strategic Collaborations: Fashion Nova collaborates with influencers, celebrities, and other brands to create exclusive collections. These collaborations generate buzz, attract new customers, and position Fashion Nova as a brand at the forefront of pop culture.
• Limited Edition Releases: The brand employs limited edition releases, often with a sense of exclusivity or urgency. This scarcity marketing tactic enhances the perceived value of the products and drives demand.

Seasonal and Event-Based Campaigns:

• Holiday Promotions: Fashion Nova runs promotions and campaigns tied to holidays, special events, and cultural moments. This aligns the brand with current themes and ensures relevance in the minds of consumers during specific periods.
• Event Sponsorships: The brand may engage in sponsorships of events or fashion shows, further enhancing its visibility within the industry and among its target audience.

Community Engagement:

• Engaging Contests and Challenges: Fashion Nova occasionally hosts contests or challenges on social media platforms, encouraging user participation and content creation. This not only fosters engagement but also amplifies the brand’s reach through user participation.

Fashion Nova’s success lies in its ability to harmonize these elements, creating a cohesive and dynamic marketing mix that resonates with its target demographic, fosters customer loyalty, and positions the brand as a trendsetting force in the fast-fashion industry.

Also Read: Marketing Strategies and Marketing Mix of Urban Outfitters

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Fashion Nova’s Labor Standards and Transparency

Fashion Nova was founded in 2006, and today, this fast-to-market apparel and lifestyle brand has over 25 million social media followers. The company’s clothing is worn by stars such as Cardi B and Kylie Jenner. In 2018, it was the most popular fashion brand on Google. Richard Sagian, founder and CEO of the company, states that Fashion Nova works with over 1,000 manufacturers, including those based in Los Angeles, to produce designs in just 24 hours ( About us, 2021). Then, 48 hours later, 600 new products are photographed every week (Hughes, 2018). They are published online one to two weeks after conception, and items tend to sell out in days or even hours.

A recent article from Vox reports that activists question the true value of such low prices, which are almost always the result of the exploitation of workers. And as for Fashion Nova, the company owes its workers $ 3.8 million in wages (Malik Chua, 2021). Good on you , a fashion brand rater, which evaluates brands based on their environmental and social performance, recommends avoiding this fast-fashion company for several reasons. Their website states that none of Fashion Nova’s supply chains are certified by labor standards, that there is little information about supplier policies, gender equality, or freedom of association, and that it is unclear if the company pays enough for its employees to live (Rauturier, 2020). All of these claims were further backed up by the New York Times in a 2019 article that reported Fashion Nova was clearly underpaying and that its factories were under investigation by the US Department of Labor (Kitroeff, 2019).

As an inspector, I would suggest Fashion Nova admit the violations and compensate all underpaid money to the workers. Also, the company should recheck its outsourcing contracts to be certified by labor standards. Finally, they should increase the company’s transparency in terms of financial activities and reports. I believe those measures would help the company to recover from the incident and gain its reputation back.

About us. (2021). Fashian Nova. Web.

Hughes, A. (2018). How Fashion Nova Won the Internet . WWD. Web.

Kitroeff, N. (2019). Fashion Nova’s Secret: Underpaid Workers in Los Angeles Factories . Nytimes.com. Web.

Malik Chua, J. (2021). Sweatpants sales are booming, but the workers who make them are earning even less . Vox. Web.

Rauturier, S. (2020). How Ethical Is Fashion Nova? . Good On You. Web.

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Fashion Nova Company, Coursework Example

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Company’s Background and E-Business Model

Fashion Nova Company is based in Los Angeles and operates under five retail stores within South California. With digitalization, almost all services are rapidly becoming digitalized, which is a rise of new opportunities, however a disruption to traditional business models. Fashion Nova company has made maximum use technology especially social media to make its business successful. Use of social media for instance Instagram has facilitated the branding of Fashion Nova a strategy which has currently disrupted the traditional fashion institution. Li and Zhang (201) argue that due to the rapid development of technology and digitalization, by 2025, 40%, approximately 500 companies existing today will be wiped out from the market due to technological changes and their inability to cope with it the changes.  Fashion Nova company is a fast-growing and currently the leading online store majoring in lifestyle brands. Due to the changes, Fashion Nova is highly moving with technology the move which has made it the highly googled company in google.

Ecommerce Model

Figure 1: Canvas Model

Since the establishment of Fashion Nova Company in 2006, the Company has been dealing with men, kids, women and curves collections. In 2018, the Company was the most searched fashion brand on Google due to its massive following and its pop-culture nature, enabling it to reach a staggering social media with over 25 million followers, including celebrities, collaborators, and their fans (Camargo, 2020). The Company is privately owned and operated under the leadership of the CEO Richard Saghian (Fashion Nova). The Company aimed to revolutionize fashion by making the women’s apparel market by introducing jeans and modern club wear for ladies with the most affordable fashion. The Company’s success story is based on staying in front of its competitors and fashion curve through engaging the entire community it serves each day to ensure it delivers the needed requirements in the fastest time possible.  Saghian pioneered the business’s success by using Instagram as the primary connection platform and relating media with the company customers, the modern strategy no company had ever done before (Fashion Nova). Due to development in technology, Fashion Nova Company, its first brand online store, made its identity a presence and the fundamental source for global shoppers due to development in technology (Bruno, 2020). The brand has the easiest shipment option for its clients, increasing its accessibility globally.

Target market and pricing strategy

Fashion Nova’s target market is majorly the millennial customer’s segment. The Company tries to capture the taste and preferences of the millennial generation through social media influence, and lucky it has been ranked 6 th favourite website for young people (Fashion Nova). The significant sales for Fashion Nova are youths since the millennials in internet savvy and entitled to shop online (Lang3ley, 2021, p12018).

E-Supply Chain

A company should consider and lay strategies on the most effective digital platform to invest for tremendous success for tremendous success. However, most organizations are more concerned about making their investment based on applications of modern technology and the existing products, practices, and processes (Alter, 2002). Through these ways, digital strategies turn futile and take the course of IT strategy, which is closely associated with the organization’s overall performance (Drnevich & Croson, 2013, p512). Digital strategy is the technological ability to enhance and propel human performance; thus, human performance is the primary attribute of digital transformation (Li & Zahang, 2017, p 1130). Leischnig and Ivens (2016) argue that a digital strategy is a form of strategic management and business answers for digital questions. Still, all companies should take into consideration of their digital capabilities before confirming their digital strategies.

Fashion Nova E-supply Chain

The e-supply chain for Fashion Nova Company encompasses all activities incorporating various e-businesses. Supply chain management has significantly gained huge benefits, especially since Information Technology became an enabler for improving various business processes (Lee & Whang, 2017). Since the last decades, the supply chain has dramatically improved in agility, efficiency and accuracy; the improvement transferred to Fashion Nova company.

Fashion Nova has integrated its business activities electronically in its value-adding processes throughout its supply chain process, making its e-supply chain management easy. The entire system has integrated its e-business by using internet technology facilitating the exchange of information, giving rise to business communication networks as the practical, innovative approach to exploring value-adding gaps within the supply chain (Nayak, 2019 p 23). The use of e-supply chain management by Fashion Nova has made the application of e-business technology easy to use, helping in the optimization of value-adding activities in the supply chain.

Due to the nature of Business to Business that Fashion Nova operates in, the e-supply chain serves to be effective in the entire process by improving real-time control, agility, speed and long-run customer satisfaction. However, the e-supply chain for Fashion Nova is based not only on technology but also on culture and change of management policy, business processes, performance metrics, and the entire organizational structure in the entire supply chain (Fashion Nova). The Company’s e-supply chain is network-centric; thus, its focus is on cooperation, connectivity, transparency of information and coordination. Sharing of information with networked supply chain partners within the five stores help in real-time information sharing and resources, changing traditional supply chain information flow from the linear transmission to end-to-end connection (Fashion Nova). The E-supply chain has dramatically helped the Company quickly transfer information directly from one partner to another in a different branch without delay and distortion.

E-supply chain integration

Integration of supply chain within the Company ensures that the supply chain operates seamlessly as an extended enterprise to facilitate reduced operation costs, agility and shortened lead-time (Brach & Webb, 200, p, 14). Processes like material ordering, stock control, packaging, delivery, supply of the brand, customer support are all controlled virtually within the Company since it operates online. The Company e-supply chain ensures the legacy of the supply chain and operational system are seamlessly incorporated into a networked business environment connected through the internet and other communication and information facilities. The Company uses two primary e-supply chain integration methods;

Co-operation Oriented integration

With this type of integration, the Company ensures that information transparency is used to increase agility, reduce costs, and improve coordination and joint decision support in the supply chain. The system allows partners to share real-time information and easy conversion into knowledge, which helps in joint decision-making, such as promotional planning, demand forecasting, and product pricing. The Company uses its retail information and suppliers like American Bazi and Heart and Hips in the retail supply chain. They are their core wholesale suppliers by use of IBM information system to enhance the provision of real-time information of sales and stock to its suppliers.

Synchronization-oriented integration

This system helps the company connect with its partners fully in the business network (Coupey, 2001). For faster delivery according to customer needs, all partners involved in the entire supply chain are virtually connected for easy and faster information transactions, for instance, retailer sales, the stock level at its stores and available stock. The system allows the transfer of real-time information to partners without distortion or lateness and avoids distortion of demand, reducing lead-time while increasing responsiveness. The entire process focuses on agility and efficiency through improved transparency and connectivity.

The supply chain process for Fashion nova is simple customers have access to its website where they order items and delivered them globally (Fashion Nova).

E-Business Strategy for Fashion Nova

E-business uses the internet to empower and network business processes, Company’s communication, e-commerce and collaboration between the Company, its customers, stakeholders and suppliers (Brach & Webb, 200, p16).  E-business uses the internet, extranet, intranet, social media and various networks to enhance their processes.  Through e-business, companies use social media and online websites for advertising, buying and selling their products and services online. The hypermarket industry has become too competitive, forcing firms to adopt e-business to gain a competitive advantage over their peers in more significant market access, reduced costs, higher customer satisfaction, and increased revenue stream.

Fashion Nova Corporate e-business strategies

The primary aim of the digital strategy adopted by the Company in 2013 is to reshape the entire business operation to gain a competitive advantage over its peers. Digital transformation is fueled by the presence of the internet, social media, mobiles, intelligent technologies and the cloud and the ever-growing demand for integration and automation. Digital transformation has brought about new opportunities for innovation of products and services but caused a threat for the traditional business. However, Fashion Nova uses this opportunity to outcompete its peer by developing a robust online presence. While the majority of companies strive to diffuse a clear understanding about the nature and impacts of digital transformation strategies, for Fashion Nova, it was an easy journey due to its Instagram established presence before establishing online stores. Fashion Nova’s strategy is built upon vertical forward integration since it controls its business wholly. However, in its initial stages, it employed intensive market penetration strategies based on establishing the brand on Instagram before establishing online stores.

Fashion Nova Business Level strategies

Fashion Nova target customer is the millennial generation. This generation comprises unemployed but fashionable youths; thus, the Company use its pricing strategy by selling fashionable and affordable wear to its target customers, making it more feasible in the market.  The Company make use of celebrities, for instance, Kim Kardashian, to make its brand popular and attract more youths as their customers but at affordable prices. The majority of the Company’s products price range from $20 to $50, but there are also highly-priced products. The marketing and sale strategy has made the Company more popular and faster growth due to customer satisfaction.

Digital strategies

Due to technological advancement, the demand for the internet has gone high, facilitating the development of social media like Facebook, Instagram, TikTok and Twitter. The majority of e-business make use of social media to make their brands popular and increase sales.  The primary secret behind the success of Fashion Nova Company is the maximum use of social media (Instagram) for market penetration. The Company invests heavily on social media through posting almost after 30 minutes on their Instagram profile. The Company also team up with celebrities and influencers, for instance, Cardi B, to make the brand feasible and appealing. Like procurement and supply chain, the Company’s process is conducted virtually, reducing costs at a high level, thus enabling it to sell products at a lower price compared to its peers.

Figure 1: Ashridge Mission Model for Fashion Nova e-business strategy

Challenges Facing Fashion Nova Company

While developing its e-business strategies, Fashion Nova Company faces several challenges. The Company has been accused by who are believed to be competitors as unethical Company. For instance, the Company has been accused by the federal labour department to underpay its workers in factories in Los Angeles as they strive to outcompete their oversee peers. Another major challenge for the Company is the current trend with unpredictable fashion, which changes each day as competitors also develop new designs. Other challenges include globalization associated with international laws, politics and policies, as analyzed below.

Fashion Nova Situation Analysis

Table 2: SWOT Analysis

The Company has an ultrafast fashion that is shipped directly to consumers; thus, no intermediaries offering cheap newness to its customers. The company products are relatively cheap, mostly less than 50 us dollars, making it more popular and searched on google. The Company offers more than 700 new styles each week forms another strength and competitive advantage.

Table 3: Fashion Nova TOWS Analysis

Table 4: Fashion Nova STEEPLE Analysis

  Table 5: Fashion Nova Porters Five Forces Analysis

The forces are the major factors determining the firm’s profitability (Poter, 2001, p73). Like any industry, e-business faces significant challenges in the new entry of other firms since there are no effective regulations. In Fashion Nova, the Company faces many competitors like Vince Holding Corp, which is also taking roots at a higher rate due to expansion to new locations. The products for the competitors are also slightly differentiated, making it hard to penetrate to other markets.

The report outlines for Fashion Nova Company together with the general operation of e-business. Fashion Nova company has strived in the current competitive market to establish its band by maximum use of social media and other strategies like pricing to attract its millennial target customers. With technology, the company was able to establish online stores the strategy most businesses are using currently for competitive advantage. Social media tend to grow on a higher rate with increase number of internet users thus the company exploits the opportunity by use of Instagram to make its brand feasible. Influencers are also the current brand ambassadors for products due to a massive number of followers they have. Fashion Nova has used the strategy to enhance their success meaning they move with technology and market trend.  This can be achieved through continuous innovation and abiding by critical laws. However, the Company is faced with innovative disruptors and a scarcity supply of critical laws hindering its future expansion plans.

Alter, S., Information Systems: the Foundation of e-Business, 4th edition, Prentice-Hall, 2002.

Brache & Webb (2000) The eight deadly assumptions of e-business. Journal of Business Strategy 21 (3), 13-17.

Bruno, E., 2020.  The BI architecture of a luxury fashion company  (Doctoral dissertation).

Camargo LR, Pereira SC, Scarpin MR. Fast and ultra-fast fashion supply chain management: an exploratory research. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. 2020 Apr 22.

Coupey, E. (2001) Marketing and the Internet – Conceptual Foundations. Upper Saddle River, NJ. Prentice-Hall.

Drnevich, P. L., and Croson, D. C. 2013. “Information Technology and Business-Level Strategy: Toward an Integrated Theoretical Perspective,” MIS Quarterly (37:2), pp. 511-536

Langley, P. and Rieple, A., 2021. Incumbents’ capabilities to win in a digitised world: The case of the fashion industry.  Technological Forecasting and Social Change ,  167 , p.120718.

Lee, H. & Whang, S.,  2001e-Business and supply chain integration, SGSCMFW2-2001, Stanford University, USA.

Leischnig, A., Woelfl, S., and Ivens, B. S. 2016. “When Does Digital Business Strategy Matter to Market Performance?” in ICIS. Dublin

Li, L., Su, F., and Zhang, W. 2017. “Digital Transformation by SME Entrepreneurs: A Capability Perspective,” Information Systems Journal (28), pp. 1129-1157.

Porter, ‘Strategy and the Internet, Harvard Business Review, 2001, March, pp. 72–74.

Nayak, R., 2019.  Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technology and Application in Fashion and Textile Supply Chain: Technology and Application in Garment Manufacturing and Supply Chain . CRC press.

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Feel cute, sexy, and flirty this summer with our huge selection of women's dresses , in every color, print, silhouette, and fit imaginable. No matter the occasion, from pool days to hot parties or steamy date nights, the dresses that will make you feel your best and look your hottest are here.

Swap your everyday women's jeans for a sexy dress, choose some heels from our endless selection of shoes, complete the look with killer accessories, and go out on the town with your girlfriends or with your boo — all eyes are sure to be on you!

The Season’s Hottest Women’s Dresses

Vacation-ready maxi dresses, in bold tie dye or nature-inspired prints, featuring high slits and showing loads of sexy cleavage, will effortlessly take you from the beach to the dance floor. Wear them over your bikini sets as a breezy cover-up or over sexy lingerie to feel your absolute best. Don’t forget to pick out stylish flat sandals, comfortable wedges, strappy heels, or sexy clear shoes as the finishing touch to your new OOTD.

Want to show some leg? Browse our super cute, super sexy mini dresses for women, in neutral hues like white, taupe, chocolate, rust, or black, or fun summer-inspired prints. Complete the look with shiny pumps or heeled sandals and get ready to slay all day.

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An Overview of Fashion Nova

Experts in this subject field are ready to write an original essay following your instructions to the dot!

Fashion Nova is humbled to announce the showcasing of our designs at the New York Fashion Week on for women’s wear on the 16th of February, 2018 (NY Fashion Week 2018 Dates, 2018). The event is our first fashion event and we look forward to interacting with our clients. We will have a room where we will showcase our current designs from 8th to 16th February. In addition to this, we will have a lingerie section since we are approaching Valentine’s Day; during the eight-day period, all the lingerie will be 30% off (Shop Valentine's Day, 2018). Our brand is well-known for making clothes that fit the different body types of women worldwide.

Media Outlet

The brand ambassador for the company from 1st January 2018 to 1st

January 2019 is Gigi Hadid in association with E-news. Gigi Hadid is a talented, popular model with vast experience in the fashion industry as she has successfully collaborated with top designers such as Tom Hilfiger. Her energy coupled with her large social media following is an effective way of marketing our brand. Also, she has elements of both high-fashion and street style, which define the key aspects of the brand. The association with E-news is of utmost importance since it is the number one TV station for every fashion lover. The station also has a large social media following since the best-dressed in every fashion event, as well as the street style of the day, is featured on its Instagram and Facebook pages, as well as the Twitter handle.

Distribution

Clients can purchase outfits from the runway one week after the event i.e., from 23rd

February 2018. The most efficient method of booking items is through Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook and e-mail address. Every item has a code name and the client should state their size. We chose these avenues since they can be accessed using smartphones.

NY Fashion Week 2018 Dates. (2018). Retrieved from Fashion Week Online: http://fashionweekdates.com/new-york-fashion-week-dates-schedule.html

Shop Valentine's Day. (2018). Retrieved from Fashion Nova: https://www.fashionnova.com/

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Essay on Fashion for Students and Children

500+ words essay on fashion.

Fashion refers to anything that becomes a rage among the masses. Fashion is a popular aesthetic expression. Most Noteworthy, it is something that is in vogue. Fashion appears in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup, hairstyles, lifestyle, and body proportions. Furthermore, Fashion is an industry-supported expression. In the contemporary world, people take fashion very seriously. Fashion is something that has permeated every aspect of human culture.

History of Fashion

The origin of Fashion is from the year 1826. Probably everyone believes Charles Frederick to be the first fashion designer of the world. He also established the first Fashion house in Paris. Consequently, he began the tradition of Fashion houses. Furthermore, he gave advice to customers on what clothing would suit them. He was prominent form 1826 to 1895.

During this period, many design houses hired artists. Furthermore, the job of these artists was to develop innovative designs for garments. The clients would examine many different patterns. Then they would pick the one they like. Consequently, a tradition began of presenting patterns to customers and then stitching them.

At the beginning of the 20th century, new developments in Fashion took place. These developments certainly began in Paris first. Then they spread in other parts of the world. Consequently, new designs first came into existence in France. From Paris, they went to other parts of the world. Hence, Paris became the Fashion capital of the world. Also, Fashion in this era was ‘haute couture’. This Fashion design was exclusively for individuals.

In the mid-20th century, a change took place. Now Fashion garments underwent mass production. There was a significant increase in the rate of production of Fashion garments. As a result, more and more people became involved with Fashion garments. By the end of the 20th century, a sense of Fashion awareness was very strong. Now people began to choose clothes based on their own style preference. Hence, people began to create their own trends instead of relying on existing trends.

Get the huge list of more than 500 Essay Topics and Ideas

Fashion Trend

Political influences certainly play a major role in influencing Fashion. Many politicians become fashion symbols. Notable examples are First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy and Princess Diana. Also, political revolutions make a huge impact on the Fashion trend. For example, in 1960’s America, liberal clothing styles became popular among the younger generation. This was due to the Liberal revolution.

Another significant factor which influences Fashion trend is technology. There certainly has been a rapid growth of technology in the Fashion industry. For example, wearable technology has become a popular Fashion trend. Furthermore, 3D printing technology and the internet have also made an impact on Fashion.

Social influences are probably the strongest influences on the Fashion trend. Many music stars strongly influence Fashion choice. For example, wearing hoodies became famous due to rap musicians. Furthermore, movie and television actors create a big impact on Fashion. Many youngsters love to emulate the Fashion sense of their favourite celebrity.

To sum it up, Fashion certainly has become a part and parcel of human life. It certainly is a force that is here to stay. Most noteworthy, Fashion has immersed every place on Earth.

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Israelis Visit Nova Festival Site for National Day of Mourning

“Our hearts are broken,” one mourner said at the site of a rave for peace and love where hundreds were killed in the Hamas-led attack on Oct. 7.

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Israelis Gather at Site of Oct. 7 Festival Attack to Mourn Loved Ones

People gathered on israel’s national day of mourning to remember festivalgoers who were killed on oct. 7 by the hamas-led assault..

[music playing] “This is my first time because it was so painful for me. I’ve been in the funeral, and it was too painful. Now I just took myself to here because I want to remember her in here and put a candle for her and pray for her.” “Sad, sad. The sky is crying with us. The rain was all around. I feel bad.” [singing]

By Isabel Kershner

reporting from southern Israel

• May 13, 2024

In a sandy clearing near Israel’s border with Gaza, soldiers, civilians and tourists wandered silently through a dense thicket of poles. Affixed to the poles were portraits of the hundreds of people who came there to dance late one night last October and never made it home.

As Israelis observed Memorial Day, the country’s annual commemoration for fallen soldiers and victims of terrorist attacks, many were drawn to the site of the Tribe of Nova music festival , a rave dedicated to peace and love that was interrupted around sunrise on Oct. 7 by a barrage of rockets from Gaza, signaling the start of the Hamas-led cross-border assault.

In the horror that followed, at least 360 festivalgoers were slain — nearly a third of the roughly 1,200 people killed in southern Israel that day, according to the Israeli authorities. Gunmen who surged across the border surrounded the Nova site , ambushed people as they tried to escape in their cars and hunted them down in bomb shelters along the road or as they fled across furrowed fields.

Observing Israel’s first national day of mourning after the deadliest day in the 76-year history of the state, and with the country still at war in Gaza, many people came to the Nova memorial site beginning on Sunday to remember the dead and those festivalgoers who were taken hostage to Gaza and are still being held there.

On Sunday, a solemn hush was broken at times by Israeli flags snapping in the wind, and by the sharp cracks of artillery fire from Israeli troop positions nearby.

“The earth is crying out,” said Eliran Shuraki, 39, a resident of central Israel who had come to the Nova site for the first time on Sunday with a friend. “Our hearts are broken,” he added.

They had first visited Be’eri , one of the border communities worst affected on Oct. 7, and where one of Mr. Shuraki’s colleagues lost three generations of relatives, he said. Mr. Shuraki’s brother lost a brother-in-law, a police officer, at the Nova festival, he said.

Nicole and Guy Peretz, a couple in their early 30s, had come from Ashkelon up the coast. Both are former police officers, and several of their former colleagues were killed at the site, they said.

“Until you come here yourself and see the incomprehensible number of people with your own eyes, you cannot absorb it,” Ms. Peretz said.

More makeshift memorials dot the roadsides, orchards and meadows for miles around, made up of portraits and piles of stones, handwritten notes and candles, and wreaths that have withered under the beating sun.

In a field nearby, hundreds of incinerated cars gathered from the roadsides after the Oct. 7 attack are piled up in a graveyard of metal.

Even the bomb shelters where so many sought protection that day, only to be killed as they huddled inside, have turned into shrines. Their charred and blood-spattered interiors have been whitewashed. The stench has gone. Their walls are now covered with graffiti: searing messages, photographs and prayers memorializing those who were there but are no longer.

Isabel Kershner , a Times correspondent in Jerusalem, has been reporting on Israeli and Palestinian affairs since 1990. More about Isabel Kershner

Emma Corrin Is in a League of Their Own

Whether they’re playing Princess Diana or Marvel’s newest supervillain, the star has the rare ability to sink into a role while remaining utterly themselves

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Emma Corrin is scraping butter over a hot cross bun. It’s Monday afternoon outside a London bakery. “The most transgressive human desire is autonomy,” Corrin says levelly, their blue eyes clear and unblinking. “The ability to do what you want, have sex with who you want, dress how you want, say what you want.”

It’s a statement that makes me wonder how Corrin’s own desire for autonomy plays into their artistry and chimeric talent for embodying everything from British princesses to amateur sleuths. Now, they’re taking on Cassandra Nova in Marvel’s Deadpool & Wolverine , the evil twin sister of Professor X and the latest supervillain to face Ryan Reynolds’s Deadpool and Hugh Jackman’s Wolverine.

“It felt like working with a skin-covered Swiss Army knife,” says Reynolds, a disturbing image I recall as I watch Corrin slice through a bun. “Emma brought a Gene Wilder energy to Deadpool & Wolverine . Mischief, danger, unpredictability—from their first scene onward, we understand the villain enough to know why she’s motivated to oppose our heroes. And that’s because Emma is so fucking excellent at humanizing even the most chaotic lines. The only thing we love more than hating a villain is loving one. And we love Emma’s Cassandra Nova from the jump.”

.css-1pfpin{font-family:NewParisTextBook,NewParisTextBook-roboto,NewParisTextBook-local,Georgia,Times,Serif;font-size:1.75rem;line-height:1.2;margin:0rem;padding-left:5rem;padding-right:5rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){.css-1pfpin{padding-left:2.5rem;padding-right:2.5rem;}}@media(min-width: 64rem){.css-1pfpin{font-size:2.5rem;line-height:1.2;}}.css-1pfpin b,.css-1pfpin strong{font-family:inherit;font-weight:bold;}.css-1pfpin em,.css-1pfpin i{font-style:normal;font-family:NewParisTextItalic,NewParisTextItalic-roboto,NewParisTextItalic-local,Georgia,Times,Serif;} “The most TRANSGRESSIVE human DESIRE is AUTONOMY.”

Reynolds is on to something here: Corrin’s ability to humanize. To play Cassandra Nova, Corrin observed Christoph Waltz’s Hans Landa in Quentin Tarantino’s Inglourious Basterds, the Nazi colonel assigned to hunt out the Jews hiding in occupied France. “Because he’s in that uniform, that says everything you need to know,” they explain. “He can sit down at the table and just chat like we’re doing now, be animated, very pleasant. It’s so unnerving because he’s as evil as they get, the worst person on the planet. … He is the opposite of a scary villain; he lets his physicality do the talking, and then he flips the other parts on their head.”

I observe Corrin taking a delicate bite out of their bun. “Emma has an ability to so subtly change—to turn on a dime,” says Jackman. “There was an effortlessness, a sense of danger.”

Reynolds calls them “one of the greatest partners I’ve ever had in the Deadpool sandbox,” adding, “You heard me, Jackman.”

It’s quite an endorsement, considering this is Corrin’s first foray into the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the realm of endlessly iterative blockbusters and a significant departure from the kinds of roles they have previously inhabited. In addition to their breakout role as the young Princess Diana in The Crown in 2020, there was fake heiress Anna in the play Anna X ; Marion confronting her husband’s sexuality in My Policeman ; Constance, who begins an electrifying affair with a gamekeeper in Lady Chatterley’s Lover ; Orlando in the West End stage adaptation of Virginia Woolf’s gender-bending novel of the same name; the pink-haired Darby in A Murder at the End of the World ; and now Deadpool & Wolverine . Period characters, scammers, Gen Z sleuths, supervillains—Corrin’s boldness in their own journey of self-discovery (three years ago, the 28-year-old actor came out publicly as queer and nonbinary) has gifted them the empathy that unlocks a huge spectrum of characters.

When I first meet Corrin, it’s at the entrance of a Hampstead bookstore. They are wearing a black North Face puffer jacket over a red hoodie, jeans, and old trainers, a practical and unremarkable ensemble for unpredictable British weather. Around us, people stare, do double takes, but Corrin is well disguised. No one can quite match up their low-key outfit with Princess Diana.

I confess my disappointment that they’re wearing pants. They laugh. “Can you imagine? If I turned up in just tights?”

“Who are you HURTING by BEING YOURSELF? Why am I CONTROVERSIAL ? I think it’s fear. Absolute FEAR.”

I can, actually. Corrin is no stranger to the pantsless trend; they may have even ignited it. They closed Miu Miu’s Fall 2023 show in a pair of glittering sequin briefs worn over sheer black hose, and they wore an olive-green knitted riff on the same look to the Venice Film Festival later last year. They dominated the 2024 BAFTAs in black briefs and teal tights, with oversize bows on each hip and a delicate fishnet veil. But today, their hair is a velveteen buzz cut, all the angles of their face visible. They wear no makeup or jewelry apart from a pair of simple Cartier huggies.

Corrin is between projects. They’ve just finished filming Deadpool & Wolverine , but can’t disclose any details because “I’ll be hunted down in the night.” In a few days, they’re flying to Hong Kong for another movie. Which means they’re currently reading nonfiction: “When I’m working, I read fiction. It’s a form of escapism. When I’m not working, I want to feel like I’m learning something.”

Corrin is a quick study. Born in Kent, England, the eldest of three, they attended the posh Woldingham School before matriculating at Cambridge, where they became immersed in the theater scene, acting in 20 plays. After university, they got a day job at a fashion start-up in London to pay the bills while auditioning for roles, quickly landing parts in the TV dramas Grantchester and Pennyworth . How they got the part of The Crown ’s young Diana is the stuff of acting legend. When they walked in, The Crown hadn’t even started casting for Diana; Corrin was assisting with chemistry readings for the Camilla auditions. But Corrin treated the opportunity as if it were an audition, preparing the shy tilts of Diana’s head and her slow, mannered intonation with their speech-therapist mother. Their hard work paid off. They ultimately won the role and, later, a Golden Globe.

We wind our way through the store, chatting about what we’ve read. Corrin’s interaction with books is physical, pressing hands to covers, trailing fingers down spines. I ask if they’ll recommend a book to me. (They started a Bookstagram account during lockdown.) “ The Overstory, ” Corrin says immediately, naming the Pulitzer Prize–winning 2018 novel by Richard Powers. “It’s about trees. An epic story that follows different people whose lives are all affected by nature.” They speak quickly, more Darby than Diana, their thoughts silvered, slipstream. “It sounds strange to get behind, but it’s one of the most incredible things I’ve ever read.”

“By taking up SPACE, by being VISIBLE, that’s SOMETHING in itself.”

Corrin tells me they read it after losing a close friend to a brain tumor. “It was devastating,” they say, clutching a coffee cup that no longer has coffee in it. “But that book made me think about the cycle of life. It made me feel reassured. Because a big message of it is that trees have been here for so much longer and will be here for so much longer. There’s something comforting about that.”

Growth, cycles—these are themes Corrin is keenly aware of. “Self-discovery has been huge for me in terms of my identity and gender,” they say against the low hum of the bookstore. Outside, a circus truck goes by, music blaring. Corrin dances along, with the abandon of Diana in the “Fairytale” episode but none of the desperation, then seamlessly slips back into conversation. “People discovering different parts of themselves, which are awakened by people they meet or situations—the idea that no one is ever finished. People keep growing, keep evolving. It’s limitless; it’s cycles.”

I suggest Joelle Taylor’s stunning novel, The Night Alphabet , if they like nonlinear narratives, where the tattoos on a woman’s body are windows into different stories: a coal miner’s daughter, a trafficked girl. Corrin lights up. “I’m obsessed with tattoos.”

We cross the store in search of Taylor’s book. They tell me about the symbols on their body, the cherubs on their leg, the power of tattoos to capture time, write history onto skin. Corrin is drawn to the permanency of tattoos: “I like knowing I have something on my body that’s entirely me.” I wonder if it’s because they can feel anything but permanent. Corrin specializes in metamorphosis: Think of Diana’s transformation from pussy-bowed teenager to shoulder-padded celebrity, Constance’s move from duty to sexual liberation, Orlando’s gender-switching.

Corrin, however, gravitates to tattoos for reasons beyond costume changes: “I started getting tattoos when I started exploring my identity.” In front of the graphic art of Ela Lee’s Jaded , they push back their sleeve. Inked onto the soft of their arm is a solitary house on a ringed planet. “It’s the apartment on Uranus,” they say, almost breathless with the memory.

An Apartment on Uranus is a collection of beautiful, urgent essays by the Spanish trans philosopher Paul B. Preciado. In the titular essay, Preciado dreams about living in an apartment on Uranus, a place where the binaries of male and female don’t exist. “That book was fundamental to me,” Corrin says. They trace the circle of the planet so tenderly, I wonder what it’s like to never feel safe, to have to imagine another world to call home. This tattoo is precious to Corrin, at once identity, dissidence, wish, hope. It’s one of the ways they are reclaiming themselves from the violence of a gendered world.

Corrin buys The Night Alphabet and Taylor’s poetry collection C+nto & Othered Poems before declaring a craving for hot cross buns. Hampstead is Corrin’s neighborhood—they live in a flat close by with their dog, Spencer—so they take the lead, past an Italian ice cream parlor, a florist, and a side street where rolls of Turkish rugs, velvet chairs, and antique desks spill out onto the pavement. The air smells of cut stems and old wood.

We order the pastries and some juice and sit outside. I ask about the swell of homophobia and transphobia they’ve faced since coming out as queer and nonbinary. They first identified as LGBTQ+ in April 2021, when they posted a photo of themselves in a wedding dress with the caption “ur fave queer bride.” Later, in July 2021, they changed their pronouns on Instagram and posted photos of themselves wearing a chest binder.

“The vitriol is worse than I anticipated,” Corrin reflects, pulling the collar of their jacket up against the wind. “Even though we like to think we’re in a progressive society, a lot of what we’re seeing is increasingly a step back.”

This is a dignified understatement. Reading the comments on Corrin’s Instagram is a baptism in hate. Peel back the disturbing attitudes to body hair, the grammatical sniping, and the dogged insistence on the immutability of language and, post after post, they’re shamed and humiliated and told they’re dangerous, emotionally unstable. Their identity is always denied, always corrected.

“It’s QUITE HARD to feel like you have CONTROL over ANYTHING as an ACTOR.”

“People follow me because they’ve watched something I’m in. They think I’m one kind of person, and then they’ll see who I actually am and how I present and—” Corrin breaks off, gazing through the bakery windows at the shelves of raspberry jams. “I will never understand why. Who are you hurting by being yourself? Why am I controversial?” It is an astonishingly philosophical approach to backlash that could—if they were more fragile, less assured—break them. “I think it’s fear. Absolute fear.”

Corrin doesn’t read comments on social media. There’s steel behind this, a determination to carve out a space for themselves where they are safe. (Their polite refusal to discuss their relationship with Bohemian Rhapsody ’s Rami Malek is part of this.) What about reviews? Corrin laughs. “I’m getting really good at not doing it. I’d be lying if I said I never read anything. Because sometimes you read one and think, ‘I’m never going to act again. I can’t do anything.’ You learn your lesson.”

The flip side to the hate Corrin experiences is the undeniable fact that they are touching people, changing minds, forming communities. They tell me about how people would hang back to speak to them after their performance as Orlando. “I remember this older man was waiting for me. His grandchild had come out as trans, and he was trying to understand it. Seeing Orlando shifted his whole perspective; he couldn’t thank me enough. It was wild. It was beautiful.”

Orlando ’s director, Michael Grandage, was deeply moved by the transformative quality of Corrin’s performance: “Very occasionally in the theater, something happens that makes you believe new ground is being broken,” he says. “One can read a lot about past performances onstage. Audiences always talk about some alchemy that happens. Well, for 12 weeks in the West End, I think audiences witnessed one of those moments.”

“No one is ever FINISHED . People keep growing, keep EVOLVING . ”

Theater is just one string in Corrin’s very full bow. They’ve also finished filming Robert Eggers’s Nosferatu, a remake of the 1922 movie, which was itself an adaptation of Bram Stoker’s Dracula . They’re writing a children’s book, and they’ve already written a screenplay with a friend. “The subject matter’s maybe not so easily palatable,” Corrin says carefully. I take this to mean the screenplay is about themes Corrin associates with but that others might find hard: the overlooked and marginalized, people on the edge. “I’ve felt the pull to write more because it’s quite hard to feel like you have control over anything as an actor. The only thing you have autonomy over is your performance. Even then, that’s being honed or curated by someone else.”

Do they think change might be coming to the film industry? Corrin sighs. Other than when they spoke about their friend’s death, it is the only moment their mood dips. “It feels impossible to know where to start to enact the change that needs to be done. But by taking up space, by being visible, that’s something in itself.” They press their fingers to their lips. “I’m a tiny cog at the moment.”

Corrin might feel like a tiny cog, but perhaps they will be one to change the machine. They’re on the selection committee for the Proof of Concept program. Supported by Netflix and led by Cate Blanchett, producer Coco Francini, and Stacy L. Smith, founder of the Annenberg Inclusion Initiative, the program will offer support for eight filmmakers with the aim of highlighting the perspectives of women and trans and nonbinary individuals. “It’s a way of giving filmmakers a chance to write these stories into the industry, to lift them up. That’s the way you get it done.”

As I watch Corrin leave, books under their arm, I think of a line from An Apartment on Uranus: “To speak is to invent the language of the crossing.” That’s what makes Corrin so compelling: their endless invention of roles, their creation of spaces for themselves and others.

This article appears in the June/July issue of Harper’s Bazaar .

Hair: Mustafa Yanaz for Bumble and Bumble ; makeup: Aaron de Mey for Sisley ; manicure: Dawn Sterling for NailGlam ; production: Day International ; set design: Heath Mattioli .

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