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The History of Sukajan Jackets and Where to Get Your Own

Bold, Colorful, Self-Expressive

March 25, 2024

With bold colors, glossy material and a massive yet detailed image of a Japanese deity or mythical figure on the back, sukajan jackets are favored by those who want to make a statement, from Justin Bieber to Miss Grand Thailand Engfa Warha. Sukajan is a combination of the two words: “suka,” from Yokosuka, the city in which the jacket is believed to have originated, and “jan” from the Japanese word for jumper. In English, they’re sometimes referred to as “souvenir jackets.”

A sukajan is typically made out of silky material, similar to that of a bomber jacket, with colorful, fine and detailed embroidery on the back. The embroidery features motifs of traditional and lucky symbols in Japanese culture, including dragons, tigers, phoenixes and carp, alongside the the words “Japan” or “Yokosuka.” Sukajan jackets are worn by adults and children alike; children’s sukajan often utilize cute, pastel base colors and images of popular characters, like Hello Kitty and friends.

Photo by Mohd Fazrul Bin Sulong via Shutterstock

Starting from Yokosuka

According to Daisuke Yamagami, owner and Japanese embroidery artisan of Dobuita Koba Studio , the exact origins of sukajan are unclear. The jackets were first produced after World War II, when U.S. soldiers stationed at the military base in Yokosuka would get their off-duty jackets customized as a souvenir, often requesting a mixture of Japanese and American motifs — a jacket from 1949 , for instance, shows American flag-patterned bald eagles flying over Mount Fuji. The actual construction of the sukajan jacket itself is quite American-feeling, recalling a varsity jacket or baseball jacket; decorated with distinctively Japanese embroidery, it serves as a striking amalgamation of the two cultures.

Starting in the 1950s, the jackets started to gain popularity among Japanese youth, particularly those who wanted to present a rebellious image. As time passed, though, the garments lost their sharp edge and are now worn by people from all walks of life.

Symbolism Behind the Embroidery

The images often used in sukajan tend to be good luck charms, and often have double meanings based on how they sound. For instance, the word for carp in Japanese is “koi,” which is a homonym with the word for love, also pronounced “koi.”

A high-quality sukajan jacket is different from every other jacket in existence, as each piece is customized to the customer’s liking and preference. The jackets requested by U.S. soldiers sometimes featured iconic American pop culture figures like Mickey Mouse or Marilyn Monroe; today, on the trendy Japanese online shopping website Zozotown, you can find a plethora of sukajan featuring popular characters like those from Sanrio, Urusei Yatsura, Betty Boop and more. The jackets have made their way into high fashion and fast fashion alike — major Japanese brands like Beams and Jouetie make their own sukajan jackets with chic and modern symbols embroidered on.

Photo by zepkatana via Shutterstock

Top 3 Places to Get Your Own Sukajan Jacket

If you want to get a sukajan of your very own, here are three recommendations for locations where you can purchase a bold statement piece for yourself.

1. Dobuita Koba Studio

What is truly special about Dobuita Koba Studio is that the artisans create order-made jackets from scratch, starting with a consultation session with the customer. Dobuita Koba Studio prides itself in trying different new things, so bring a photo of your pet, favorite motif or a hand-drawn symbol, and the artisans will surely create it for you.

2. Harajuku Jacks

Located in a small alleyway near Takeshita Street, Harajuku Jacks is where the rock ‘n’ rollers and ’50s-loving rockabillies get their fits. Not only do they have vintage clothes, but they also carry sukajan jackets, sukajan sweaters and much more. Harajuku Jacks is a treasure trove for those who seek it.

3. Harajuku Sukajyan Dept.

Another Harajuku location, particularly popular amongst celebrities and artists, Harajuku Sukajan Dept . is a store that sells solely sukajan jackets. Their most popular item is the sukajan jacket with tiger embroidery, which is their original design. Harajuku Sukajan Dept. also sells suka-shirts and t-shirts with cool Japanese embroidery for those who want to check out other items.

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Japanese Style Roaring Tiger Dragon Print Sukajan T Shirt

$ 27.95

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* Asian Size. Please Consider Sizing Up (1-3 Sizes vs US/EU Size )

Size Conversion:

1 Inch = 2.54 cm 1 Foot = 30.48 cm 1 Kg = 2.2 Pound

2 reviews for Japanese Style Roaring Tiger Dragon Print Sukajan T Shirt

7***r – March 20, 2023

C***I – February 13, 2023

woooooo! takes a long time to ship, like, the last day before refund, but, its well worth it. shirt is HEAVY, high quality material, deep gorgeous tiger/dragon. seriously this shirt is like a pound in weight. definitely highest quality t shirt sales on the site! woo, woo wooooo! my dukes of hazard friends agree!

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10 Stores To Buy An Authentic Sukajan Japanese Bomber Jacket From

While it’s been called various names, the Japanese bomber jacket is more famously known as the sukajan. What is it? How did it come about? How do I get one? All the information you need is here — read on to find out!

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Canadian singer, The Weeknd, once said, “ For my generation, the bomber jacket is like a replacement for the suit jacket. It’s a piece that men wear every day, and it’s something I would wear for any occasion. ”

True enough, this style of outerwear has been blowing up the streets and Instagram feeds. And when fashion enthusiasts (and even those who are not) find themselves in Japan, snagging a Japanese bomber jacket is basically senseless — it’s the perfect fashion souvenir.

Sukajan, The Fashion Souvenir

If you’ve never heard of the term  “sukajan” , maybe you know it by its alternative names — does “souvenir jacket” or “rebel jacket” ring a bell?

The Japanese bomber jacket is basically a type of outerwear, usually made of silk, that combines a typical varsity jacket style with dramatic embroidery of Japanese motifs including tigers, eagles, and of course, cherry blossoms. Silhouette-wise, they’re based on the classic American baseball jackets popularized by 1930svarsity teams. And Japan is quite obsessed with baseball, so it’s no surprise that this style of clothing caught on.

You probably would’ve seen the sukajan if you’ve watched the 2011 film, Drive, with Ryan Gosling donning a similar one — a white silk quilted bomber jacket with an embroidered golden scorpion on the back.

This puffy and loose, ribbed-collared and cuffed-sleeved, cropped and embroidered jacket is a fashion piece that’s both a staple and a trend, casual and dressy — and is more than just a bold fashion statement; it’s a piece that retells your Japan experience. At least, that was how it began — and also how a lot of  sukajan  wearers are using it for.

Origins of Sukajan

Like most popular fashion designs,  sukajan  has a long, rich, cultural origin. In fact, just the name itself will give you a brief insight into where it came from. The term is believed to be a portmanteau — it combines the end half of the name of the naval base city, Yokosuka, with the first half of the Japanese katakana translation for “jumper” which is just “jan”. Put it all together and you get “suka-jan”.

Let’s travel back in time to the era of World War II — Yokosuga in Kanagawa Prefecture of Japan was the first few naval bases in Japan. American GIs are basically the original creators of this distinctive embroidered style. In fact, there was one specific American serviceman who started it all.

When American occupation drew to a close, he had the brilliant idea of taking his normal bomber jacket to the local tailor to have it embroidered, converting something that was regarded as a symbol of war into a priceless souvenir. His fellow servicemen followed suit as soon as they laid their eyes on this creative beauty.

The original  sukajan  combined the two countries’ symbols like cherry blossoms, dragons, geishas, and eagles. These motifs remain to this day as common designs on  sukajan . What’s not as common nowadays is to see maps as motifs — but back in the day, some American soldiers did request to have them embroidered to commemorate their time there. As each soldier has their own experiences infused in their bomber jacket design, authentic and hand-sewn sukajan never had two of the same styles.

More and more American soldiers wanted to bring back this one-of-a-kind souvenir to the United States as gifts, or even to sell.  The demand for these unique Japanese bomber jackets boomed, and the Japanese tailors had to be crafty — piecing together leftover parachute silk with other fabrics to feed these demands.

As the  sukajan  was getting more popular in America, Japan was adopting the American prep style during the 1950s to 1970s. This whole fascination with American clothing and pop culture is known as the “ ametora ” effect. Publications like Popeye magazine influenced the local trends and those who were looking to “westernize” their fashion style. ‘Bad boy’ icons like James Dean and Marlon Brando were all the rage in Hollywood, and kimonos were being swapped with biker jackets.

But not everyone was into it. Some took on the  sukajan  as alternate outerwear and a way of making a statement — a defiant one. Just like how the Schott Perfecto leather jacket acts as a symbol of rebellion in the United States,  sukajan  rapidly became associated with Japanese gangs like Yakuza and juvenile delinquents like the Yankii subculture, hence the nickname “rebel jacket”.

Sukajan’s Recent Evolution

The  sukajan  came a long way from a mere souvenir jacket to a symbol of rebellion, and now a fashion trend. While it has remained in Japan as an iconic fashion clothing piece, the rest of the world didn’t really know what  sukajan  was — even in America, the souvenir jacket began to fade after the war.

It wasn’t until the mid-2010s did the  sukajan  see its revival outside of Japan — I’d say we have Ryan Gosling to thank for that. Other Hollywood celebrities like Drake and Kanye West also added the iconic Japanese souvenir jacket to their wardrobe, and fashion magazines like Menswear Style declared the silk bomber jacket to be a “defining fashion item”.

Luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent incorporated silk bomber jackets featuring floral motifs into their collections. Streetwear brands too didn’t pass on the chance to be in the loop with this timeless style; Adidas and Converse were quick to release their own rendition of souvenir jackets, by incorporating the style of prints onto other fashion pieces like sneakers.

We have to admit:  sukajan  went from an item with a purpose to now holding mainstream appeal and becoming a worldwide fashion trend. Its journey is quite extraordinary, and personally, I see no limit to the reaches of this Japanese bomber jacket.

Where To Buy Sukajan

We can’t deny how popular  sukajan  has become, and don’t we all want to join the bandwagon if we haven’t already? Because it’s such a trendy style, it’s relatively easy to get something similar — just walk into your local Zara or H&M and you’ll probably see a rendition of the original souvenir jacket hanging on the racks. Even Gucci and Saint Laurent boutiques would have a couple of designs in store.

But as we’ve read,  sukajan  has a cultural history that prioritizes certain aspects of the  sukajan  which aren’t reflected in these big-name fashion brands. Sukajan is mainly about  personalization ,  customization,  and  workmanship  — if I had to boil the essence of this jacket down into a few words, those would be it. You won’t be able to get any of them from a fast-fashion bomber jacket; not even one from a luxurious brand.

To get the full authenticity, there are specific places where you can get them from. I’ve categorized them into two parts: buying in Japan itself or online and those wanting to buy from outside of Japan.

Shopping For A Sukajan In Japan

1.  Tailor Toyo

You could go to the local tailor that’s said to have been the original creator of sukajan, Tailor Toyo, as it’s still in business to this day. What’s more authentic than the original crafters themselves? You can get everything from silk to acetate bomber jackets, reversible or one-sided, recreation of vintage 1940s sukajan, or an original. They are sold at quite a high price of ¥40,000, and shirts with  sukajan  prints are for ¥7,000 — but you’re basically paying for the highest level of quality, are you not?

Or you could look at your other options. The most obvious place to get the most authentic  sukajan  in Japan is the original city where it was invented in the first place: Yokosuka.

A street called Dobuita Street is the perfect place where you’ll be so overloaded with  sukajan  that you wouldn’t even believe it. Don’t be fooled by how it looks — this classic local street retains its appearance since back when  sukajan  was first popularised. From one-of-a-kind shopping to Western grubs, your day out would be filled with activities.

2.  Fuji Military

One shop on the shopping street that’s great for  sukajan  is  Fuji Military . By the name of it, you can assume they’re experts at military-style clothes. While they’re made mainly for men, women are always welcome to try them on. I mean, the unisex trend is all the rage, too, isn’t it? They have an  online shop  where you can browse the designs available, but international shipping may not be possible.

3. Prince Co.

Another notable store along Dobuita Street is  Prince Co . This company has been making authentic souvenir jackets for over 70 years, offering unique designs in limited quantities. You can even customize yourself — choose from a wide range of colors, pick the embroidery print of your choice from the samples, and wait for the magic to happen. You have to have patience if you’re customizing one, though — it can take up to three months for your customized  sukajan  to be finished.

4. First Shokai

On the same street is another popular sukajan buying spot,  First Shokai . Being in the business for over 35 years, this company can personalize your jacket to perfection. I mean, they have made top-notch jackets for celebrities like  Eikichi Yazawa  and  Yokoyama’s Crazy Ken  Band. Similarly, this store would need time to craft your  sukajan  — up to about two months.

5.  Misaka

Mikasa on Dobuita Street is one of the very few shops that still carries the original Tailor Toyo products, particularly the reversible ones. Existing since 1952, there are other brands that are sold here, including a made-in-Japan brand called Hoshihime. Similarly, this brand offers  sukajan  of the highest quality — both thick and thin varieties. You can browse their  online store  for the designs that they have before dropping by.

6. Okuma Shokai

If you want to venture out of Yokosuka and closer to Tokyo, pop by  Okuma Shokai  in Ueno, the northern part of Tokyo. This shop carries sukajan for everyone — kids, men, and women. You have everything you can ever ask for in terms of the Japanese bomber jacket; from thick and thin ones to ready-made and customizable, they have them all. If you’re not going to be in Japan for long and need a quick snag off the racks, Okuma’s your best bet.

One even closer to the city center of Tokyo is  Kinji , conveniently located in Harajuku, Tokyo’s fashion neighborhood. They have quite a range of second-hand clothing, which Tokyo is quite known for. The selection of  sukajan  here is not as high-quality as the ones that you customize yourself, but if you’re not that bothered by it and just want a cheap version of this unique fashion souvenir — along with other clothing pieces and accessories — Kinji is the answer to your prayers.

Shopping For A Bomber Jacket Online Or Outside of Japan

Don’t worry, those of you who aren’t going to Japan any time soon or are not in Japan yet, you can also get authentic  sukajan  from abroad, and we have the great technology of online shopping to thank for that.

8.  Japan Zone

One of the best websites to get a  sukajan  is Japan Zone — they have quite a range of Japanese bomber jackets to choose from. Not only that, the prices are quite the steal! Their jackets may not be made from leftover parachute fabrics, but hey, they definitely encompass the cultural authenticity. Japan Zone has both vintage and new ones on sale, so depending on what you prefer, you’re going to get one that suits your taste.

9.  Japan Lover Me

If vintage seems to be more of your thing, Japan Lover Me has quite a range. Admittedly, some of them can be a bit more expensive than others, but can you really put a price on authenticity?

10.  eBay

Don’t think the bigger sites are not options: eBay, as well as Amazon Japan, are wonderful places to check out the sukajan range. You get a wide range of prices and designs, and maybe a shipping discount.

A Bomber Jacket Buying Guide

Before you head to any of the places and websites I mentioned above, first, you have to know exactly what you’re buying. Especially if you’re online shopping, sizing can be an issue. Those serious about finding the perfect  sukajan  should take their time in selecting one. After all, the whole concept of sukajan is customization, so if it doesn’t suit you 100%, you definitely shouldn’t get it.

Before you even pick a style, you have to pick the  type of  sukajan : do you want a new one or a vintage one? Do you want to customize or get ready-made? Do you want silk or are you not bothered by the fabric? Some prefer to get a vintage one even though they’re generally more expensive, as it’s definitely more unique — each stitch was embedded with a special story for the original owner. Keep in mind that if you do get a vintage  sukajan , you’d need to put in a bit more effort to preserve its original essence.

If the  price  is an issue and you’re on a budget, or not willing to spend a lot for one, then that factors into the types of  sukajan  you can get. As I’ve mentioned, vintage ones do get pricey. Ready-made ones that aren’t silk are probably the cheapest of them all.

Be prepared, regardless of what type of sukajan you’re getting, there’s one  common clothing care  you need to be aware of: hand-wash them to prevent the embroidery from fraying. You could use the gentlest setting on your machine, but I highly recommend opting for just hand wash.

Different Bomber Jacket Styles

Picking a style for your  sukajan  is a tricky part — there are so many designs that you won’t even be able to decide! There are a few details here and there that you can keep a lookout for, and have a list of specific details that you want before going on your  sukajan  hunt.

For example, if you’re looking for a more durable  sukajan  to wear in the winter, you’d want a thicker one with zip-in lining where you can add an extra layer of warmth. Keep in mind that the Japanese bomber jacket is more of a “style over substance” kind of thing in general, so practicality isn’t really prioritized.

What  colours  do you want for your sukajan? Do you want a classic black one with the embroidery standing out more than the others, or one that’s generally popping out, with the embroidery and jacket colour coherent to each other? Brighter colours are harder to match, and muted ones are more flexible.

And then comes the embroidery — I believe that’s the trickiest part of them all. Do you want a cleaner look with lesser embroidery or more? Similar to colors, lesser embroidery means easier to match, and vice versa. The more embroidery, the warmer the jacket becomes — so that’s a good point to keep in mind. Then comes the actual embroidery motif itself — do you want an animal design, floral, or nature ones? Think about the kind of vibe your personal style gives off, and pick a motif from there.

Bomber Jacket Sizes

Sizing is tough, especially when you’re buying from overseas or cross-region. Some sizes in Asia are smaller than in Europe. S-M-L sometimes is just useless without any measurements to go with it.

If you’re buying online, most of the time, there are measurements given for the most accurate sizing. Compare it to your existing jacket or hoodie to see if it’ll fit. I would err on the side of caution and get a jacket a few centimeters bigger —  sukajan  generally looks fine if it’s a bit too big, but it doesn’t look good if it’s too small.

Styling Your Bomber Jacket

If you already have a sukajan or you’re going to buy one soon, play around with your bomber jacket a bit. There are so many ways to style the sukajan depending on the type you have, but I understand that some people may have trouble coming up with a style they’re comfortable with.

Traditional  sukajan  is meant to fit a bit snugger than other jacket styles — the cuff should end right where your wrist is, and the hem ends where the waist is. If you’re planning to wear  sukajan  for winter, you might want to get one that’s made for it and bigger in size so you don’t look like an overstuffed teddy. Otherwise, a single shirt underneath is the best for this bomber jacket.

The embroidery, regardless of whether it’s a big chunk or just a small motif, will be the main feature of your look. We don’t want to detract attention from this beautiful craft, do we? We also don’t want to over-accessorize the look, so I’d advise sticking with a simple t-shirt, jeans, and sneakers to match with the sukajan.

If you’re a tad more adventurous, bump up your sneakers to boots and match your colors to the popping colors of the embroidery.

Even more adventurous? Go all out and mix-match prints! If you do it right, it’ll look like you just walk out of a fashion magazine. I’d give this a pass if you’re not too comfortable with pattern-matching. I’d go on explaining it, but that would mean you reading another 5 minutes' worth of words.

Go Get Your Very First Sukajan!

The  sukajan , as we now know, isn’t just a fashion piece — its history and cultural essence are embedded in every stitch. Now that you know what to look out for when shopping for a Japanese bomber jacket, are you ready to own one? It makes a great conversation starter with someone else who has it on, too! Make a friend by buying a  sukajan !

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By Ana Ionova and Jorge C. Carrasco

Ana Ionova reported from Rio de Janeiro, and Jorge C. Carrasco from Canoas and Porto Alegre, Brazil.

When the two puppies arrived at a makeshift shelter in the southern Brazilian city of Porto Alegre, their rail-thin legs buckled from exhaustion. They had treaded water for hours, fighting to survive as floods submerged the city, turning streets into rivers.

“We tried to get them to walk, but they couldn’t,” said Dr. Daniel Guimarães Gerardi, a veterinarian volunteering at the shelter. “Your heart aches at times like these, for these poor animals suffering.”

Two days after being rescued, the 6-month-old mutts — one tiger-striped, the other jet black — mostly dozed on donated blankets amid chew toys, still drained from their ordeal. When awake, they wobbled around the shelter on unsteady legs, tails wagging and ears pinned back tightly.

They wore no name tags, and since they were found on May 21 nobody had come looking for them. “We hope that, if they have caregivers, they will be found,” Dr. Guimarães said. If not, he added, the aim will be to find them a good, safe home.

More than a month after catastrophic floods battered southern Brazil, its worst disaster in recent history, the region is still reeling. The floods submerged entire towns, destroyed bridges, shuttered an international airport and displaced nearly 600,000 people across the state of Rio Grande do Sul. At least 169 people were killed, and 56 are still missing.

Rio de Janeiro

S ã o Leopoldo

Amid the turmoil, thousands of animals were separated from their owners and trapped by the floods. Dramatic scenes of dogs struggling to save themselves by climbing onto the roofs of inundated houses and firefighters rescuing stranded animals, including a horse called Caramelo , captured headlines around the world. (Caramelo was eventually reunited with its owner.)

Even as floodwaters recede, tens of thousands of people remain in temporary shelters, unable to return to their destroyed or damaged homes. And more than 12,500 domestic animals have been rescued since the beginning of the crisis, according to state authorities.

Many of these animals don’t have owners, said Fabiana de Araújo Ribeiro, who manages Porto Alegre’s animal welfare office.

Even when they do, “they don’t have anywhere to go back to” because their homes have been ruined, Ms. Ribeiro said.

And with water levels covering street signs and house numbers, rescue crews have struggled to record with any precision where pets were rescued or whom they might belong to.

Surges of homeless animals are common after natural disasters around the world, as owners are killed, separated from their pets or forced into temporary shelters that do not allow animals.

Yet returning displaced animals is more complex in countries like Brazil than in the United States, where best practices often include methodically registering where animals are found and setting up centralized hotlines to help owners find pets, said Joaquin de la Torre Ponce, Latin America director for the International Fund for Animal Welfare, a nonprofit based in Washington.

It is also more common in the United States than in many parts of Latin America for owners to implant tracking chips in their pets, making it easier to reunite, animal welfare advocates said.

And strays are more prevalent in Latin America, where animals are often fed and cared for by an entire block, Mr. Ponce said.

“These community dogs and cats don’t have one specific owner,” he said. “So nobody is going to come looking for them in a scenario like this.”

Under the leaky roof of an abandoned warehouse in Canoas, a city neighboring Porto Alegre, some 800 rescued dogs shuffled, whimpered and barked in makeshift kennels built out of wooden pallets.

The space had been turned into an impromptu shelter by volunteers, who were working in shifts to register, feed, medicate and care for the animals. Few animals had names, but each crate bore a number, scribbled on cardboard by shelter workers.

Many had been saved by rescue crews, after spending days or even weeks stranded on roofs, in trees and in flooded homes. Some arrived injured or sick, and most were badly malnourished.

A few, like Gigante, an older Labrador wearing a pink shirt stamped with red hearts, had been dropped off by owners who were barred from taking their pets to the temporary shelters they now called home.

In one corner, a muscular white-and-brown mutt pulled at a chain leash, baring sharp teeth. He had mostly recovered from a gash to his snout, volunteers said, but he had been anxious since the floods inundated his home and sent his owner to a hospital.

Deeper in the warehouse, a subdued Rottweiler lay curled in the back corner of his kennel, his head resting on his paws. Firefighters had found him swimming in the streets of Canoas two weeks earlier, trembling and agitated.

In recent days, another bout of heavy rain set off a commotion at the shelter. When the downpour began, the dogs tried to clamber onto the roofs of their kennels. “They get nervous when they see the water,” Celso Luis Vieira, 74, a volunteer, said. “They think the place is about to flood.”

On a recent weekday morning, Sérgio Hoff was scouring the warehouse for his missing pets. When he evacuated from his home in Canoas with his wife and 9-year-old daughter in early May, the family had to leave behind their five dogs and three cats.

“My wife was in a panic; she didn’t want to leave them,” Mr. Hoff, 39, a banker, said. “But we just couldn’t take them with us. It was chaos.”

The family let the animals loose in their yard, hoping they would climb to higher ground if the waters rose. They never imagined the floodwaters would submerge their entire house.

Mr. Hoff eventually found two of his dogs in a shelter on the other side of Canoas, which made him hopeful that the others may have survived, too. But, after weeks of searching other animal shelters and scouring social media pages, he still hadn’t found the rest of the pets.

“Frustration is the only word that describes this,” he said after another unsuccessful shelter visit. “But we’re not going to give up.”

Back at the Porto Alegre shelter, a 2-year-old black mutt named Ticolé had better luck.

Frightened by the rush of water invading his neighborhood, the dog had broken loose from his home and escaped, just as his owners were preparing to flee. After two weeks, his owner, Jorge Caldeira Santos, finally tracked him down.

“I found him,” he said, as he led Ticolé out of the shelter.

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